Dear Shaded Viewers,
Rick Owens’ latest collection, “Hollywood,” is a riotous love letter to the boulevard of vice that beckoned him from the judgmental confines of Porterville. This wasn’t merely a fashion show; it was an emotional resurrection of Hollywood’s lost glamour, Cecil B. DeMille, sin, and redemptive morality, all swathed in art deco elegance. And it was nothing short of breathtaking. This must go down in the top ten fashion shows of all time. For me personally attending it sits at number one.
The palpable electricity in the air was a testament to Owens’ unabashed celebration of the misfits and freaks, the kindred spirits he found in the city of dreams. With every step, his models breathed life into a passionate homage to Hollywood’s past, echoing Lou Reed’s “Walk on the Wild Side” and channeling the flamboyant spirits captured by directors like Kenneth Anger.
Imagine thrashed gym shorts paired with chiffon capes fluttering like rebellious flags, or oversized Geobasket sneakers thundering down the runway, worn by our modern-day Peter Berlins. Capes and jackets in narrow-loomed Japanese denim, tarnished gold megacrust, and all eco-consciously treated in Italian wash houses, were not just fashion but bold, sustainable statements. Each piece bore the ZDHC certification, a symbol of Owens’ relentless pursuit of environmental responsibility.
Owens’ hooded biker jackets, crafted from milky canvas bonded with aluminum foil and veg-tanned parchment cowhide, were stunning. These were worn over silk gazar jumpsuits and gowns from Italy’s Como region, made from GOTS-certified organic silk, merging opulence with ecological mindfulness.
The knit bodysuits and T-shirts, born from a collaboration with Slovenian fashion prodigy Tanja Vidic, were nothing short of artistic revelations. Silver silk charmeuse robes from Fina, designed by Dafne Balatsos, Owens’ collaborator of 25 years, added a nostalgic touch, a bittersweet reminder of their humble beginnings scouring Oriental Silks on Beverly Boulevard.
Duffy’s platinum marcelled hair design evolved into majestic art deco crowns, thanks to Parisian hat-making wizard Coco Lucquieaud. Shoes ranged from suede marshmallow splint sandals to deflated leather iterations of last season’s Straytukay inflated boots, blending comfort with avant-garde flair.
Owens, ever the champion of inclusivity, opened his runway to fashion students and faculty from across Paris, alongside cherished friends and community icons like Jakob Jakobsson and Allanah Starr. This diverse cast was a powerful symbol of unity in the face of global intolerance, a heart-wrenching reminder of our shared humanity.
As Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7 Allegretto swelled through the speakers, the show’s 200 models, moving in synchronized groups, created an awe-inspiring spectacle. This was not just a collection; it was a mass, a stirring assembly of humanity celebrating non-conformity and community.
The emotional impact of Rick Owens’ “Hollywood” collection cannot be overstated. It was a radical blend of personal history and cultural commentary, challenging conventional aesthetics while championing inclusivity and resilience. The models, marching in unison, clad in Owens’ distinct designs, presented a heart-stopping vision of unity and defiance, resonating deeply in a world fraught with division.
Rick Owens didn’t just put on a show; he created a moment of pure, unadulterated emotional power. It was a reminder that fashion can be a force for unity, a beacon of hope, and an expression of our shared humanity. This was Rick Owens at his most vulnerable, his most passionate, and his most impactful—a true master of the craft.
Later,
Leticia
