GCDS – A Return to Roots – Giuliano Calza’s Journey Home

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Home is where every journey finds its conclusion, but coming back doesn’t mean retracing steps taken. Instead, it’s about re-establishing oneself in a familiar space, enriched by experiences gathered from afar. Such is the case for Giuliano Calza with his latest collection. After venturing into realms that could be best described as extravagant, whimsical, and dramatic, Calza finds his way back to the very core of his fashion identity.

Choosing the GCDS headquarters as the backdrop for the show is more than just a logistical decision. It harks back to the traditional atelier presentations of yesteryears. This intimate setting ensures that the focus remains firmly on the attire, free from distractions that larger spectacles might provide.

Calza’s passion is evident. For him, fashion isn’t about mere extravagance. It’s about creating practical pieces that integrate seamlessly into daily life — attire that he, and those in his circle, would choose to adorn.

This collection is a testament to his Neapolitan roots interwoven with the urban essence that has been synonymous with the brand and Calza himself. The logo, often a signature, is showcased with confidence and flair. However, this time, there’s a renewed sense of identity and self-awareness, reminiscent of the meticulous craftsmanship of old-world ateliers.

From denim and leather to unexpected elements like straw and the refined feel of bourgeois tweeds, there’s a medley of textures. Add to that a mix of loafers, white socks, tailored shirts, ribbed dresses, and subtle glam touches, and you have a collection that celebrates formality while also playfully subverting it. Signature elements, like the logo cleverly positioned on a heel or the quirky transformation of a beloved bakelite telephone into a wooden handbag, add distinctive GCDS twists.

In essence, this return to roots does not mark an end but signifies a fresh start for GCDS. It’s a cyclical journey of exploration, homecoming, and rediscovery. In Calza’s world, coming home doesn’t mean the journey’s over. It’s merely the prelude to the next adventure.

Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.