Explosive joyful melancholia at Rick Owens SS24 PFW by Leticia Dare



Dear Shaded Viewers,


Rick Owens’s SS24 runway presentation at Palais De Tokyo boldly transcended the conventional confines of the fashion realm, propelled by his visionary ingenuity that transformed it into a multisensory odyssey. The mere act of witnessing the models’ strides reverberated through the air, punctuating the rhythmic cadence of the show. Explosions of fireworks erupted from towering rigs, unleashing a mesmerizing spectacle of light and sound that enveloped the space in a transcendent aura. Swirling veils of blue and yellow smoke infused the atmosphere with an enigmatic allure, while the lingering scent of cordite left an indelible imprint on the senses. This fully immersive experience pushed the boundaries of the traditional fashion show, blurring the demarcation between art and reality, and transporting the audience into a realm where emotions were heightened and perceptions challenged.

From the moment the first model, muse Tyrone Dylan, gracefully descended the concrete steps, shrouded in sinuous all-black ensembles, the atmosphere crackled with an unmistakable energy. Rick Owens, the master orchestrator, had deftly curated a visual narrative that transcended the realms of mere melancholia. His garments, while enveloping the frame like fragments from a haunting tableau, possessed a sublime softness and vulnerability that whispered of deeper truths.

This was a celebration of joy, but not the conventional exuberance that one might expect. It was an explosive fusion of conflicting emotions—an audacious embrace of both jubilation and sorrow. Owens, ever the provocateur, harnessed the power of this paradox to craft a collection that resonated with a raw and visceral authenticity.

Through his designs, Owens wove a tapestry of emotions that defied categorization. The delicate interplay of textures and silhouettes served as a visual metaphor for the human experience—complex, nuanced, and often contradictory. It was a testament to the designer’s profound understanding of the human condition, his ability to distill our collective struggles into garments that spoke volumes.

In a world beset by adversity, Owens dared to explore the uncharted territories of personal joy. With every stitch and seam, he beckoned us to question the very essence of our existence. How do we find solace in the face of chaos? How do we navigate the murky waters of our own emotions? These were the inquiries that permeated the air, as the models paraded with an air of defiant elegance.

The all-black palette, a signature of Owens, served as a vessel for the multifaceted emotions that coursed through the collection. It was a visual representation of the human spirit, cloaked in darkness yet illuminated by the sparks of hope and resilience. The juxtaposition of strength and vulnerability, of light and shadow, imbued each garment with a sublime tension that held the audience captive.

As the last model disappeared into the smoke, the echoes of Owens’s SS24 collection lingered in the air. It was an ephemeral moment, a fleeting glimpse into the depths of the human soul. With explosive joyful melancholia, Rick Owens had crafted a sartorial masterpiece that challenged conventions and invited introspection—a poignant reminder that true beauty often resides in the most unexpected and contradictory places.





Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.