Burc Akyol is a Paris based designer of Turkish descent who has risen to remarkable heights since having launched his titular brand in 2019. In the last year his designs have been spotted on the likes of Isabel Huppert, Cate Blanchet, and Kendall Jenner. His work could be likened to that of Schiaparelli under Daniel Roseberry’s direction with their anatomically inspired metal cast pieces and exaggerated take on classic silhouettes, but Akyol’s designs accomplish a refreshing level of modernity and and a more nuanced surrealism. A dark sensuality shines through simple and distinguished cuts that reference traditional Turkish garments. Each of his metal cast pieces is a work of art in itself and produced in collaboration with Les Chemins Des Maquettes, a Paris based casting studio with an impressive list of high-end clients. A transparent and sustainable supply-chain, along with long lasting, quality material are at the heart of Akyol’s philosophy.
One could label his ready-to-wear collection the perfect capsule of sultry basics, and his debut SS24 runway collection, “Palm Gardens” is the continuation of this narrative. The show is set in the courtyard of an unassuming Parisien immeuble which is quaint yet packed, and I’m wondering how they got all the neighbors to agree to this. Black-clad invitees sit hierarchically organized in a maze of benches which carve out a catwalk in the courtyard. The cobblestone is covered in a sandy colored carpet and lined with gilded palm trees, in stark contrast to the heads of average Joes and Janes (Jeans et Jeannes?) that pop out of windows up above to watch the show. Looking up, a father is leaning against the iron railing of his window and feeding a naked baby. An old woman peers down from the fourth floor looking irritated, and a little intrigued. On the second floor, I see a man and his teenage daughter laughing and taking pictures- she leaves and comes back with a splash of red lipstick right before the show starts. It’s all very Triangle of Sadness.
Flowing chiffon, expert draping, and transparent full coverage in a dark and sultry color pallet define Akyol’s latest collection. It’s sort of what I think a fashion show on the planet Arrakis would look like. Something about the monochromatic visors and face coverings, silver sunglasses, and the crossbody draping which is done with such simple confidence, is giving a sort of gala-in-a-dystopian-empire kind of thing.
It is a peculiar elegance that I can’t wait to see more of. If you didn’t know Akyol’s name before, get ready to learn it.
À toute,
Rianna Murrray
