Renewed heritage at AZ Factory PFW F/W 23/24 by Leticia Dare


Dear Shaded Viewers,


At the Foundation Cartier, AZ Factory’s Fall/Winter 23/24 collection is a poignant tribute to the late Alber Elbaz’s vision of ‘smart fashion that cares.’ Developed in partnership with Molly Molloy and Lucinda Chambers, the collection features an array of innovative design techniques and materials that are both true to the values of AZ Factory and a fitting tribute to Elbaz’s legacy.

Layering is a key theme of the collection, with many of the garments created using deadstock fabrics left over from Elbaz’s era. The silhouettes are fluid and dynamic, with skirts that flare beautifully, shirts that offer extra movement, and trousers with exaggerated turn-ups or dropped crotches. The collection also includes a range of padded waist-warmers that add structure to kaftans and tailored coats in boucle.

Throughout the collection, there are details and drapes that nod to the world of couture, with ruffles that turn into sleeves, bows that twist into stoles, and plenty of unexpected flourishes that keep the eye engaged. The prints are a particular highlight, combining whimsy and sophistication in equal measure. The pill print, which features mesmerizing repeated spheres, is used on double-sided knits and a bucket-style leather bag. Meanwhile, a rope print with snaking lines of purple and yellow appears on a pleated dress and a selection of accessories.

Recycling and reusing are central to the collection, with many of the accessories created using deadstock leather. The collection includes a range of bags, including a bucket-style design in sumptuous leather, and new versions of Molloy and Chamber’s iconic woven bags created in collaboration with a tribe of Columbian weavers. There is also a limited edition run of 35 one-of-a-kind stools crafted in wood, with panels of deadstock leather and intricate mosaic tiling, paying homage to color, form, and the ethos of collaboration and artistic exchange that underpins this project.

The collection is an impressive demonstration of Molloy and Chamber’s expertise with eveningwear and dresses, with a range of stunning gowns that are sure to delight AZ Factory’s customers. The timeless red bishop sleeve dress, which features intricate gathers that flow around the hips, wrists, and ankles, is a particular highlight.

Overall, the AZ Factory Fall/Winter 23/24 collection is a fitting tribute to Alber Elbaz’s legacy, with a focus on innovation, sustainability, and collaboration that is sure to resonate with fashion lovers around the world. The collection’s emphasis on smart fashion that cares is a reminder of the important role that fashion can play in shaping a more sustainable and equitable world.




Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.