Dear Shaded Viewers,
Yohji Yamamoto’s fall/winter 2023/2024 collection showcased the designer’s mastery of form and texture in a monochromatic palette dominated by black. As Yamamoto once famously said, “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. But above all black says this: ‘I don’t bother you – don’t bother me’.” And this collection certainly embodied that sentiment, with an emphasis on abstract pleating, draping, and sculptural silhouettes.
While black may have been the mainstay of the collection, Yamamoto did introduce splashes of red and white as accents, as well as 3D red ribbons on coats and cropped jackets. Each look was a work of art, with raw-edged flaps, asymmetries, and odd layers that showcased the designer’s penchant for deconstruction. The collection also featured Yamamoto’s signature tailoring, with lapels, collars, and belts that curved and twisted around the body.
What made this collection particularly poignant was the underlying message of loss and pain, conveyed through the red accents and motifs. Yamamoto revealed that the touches of red represented personal losses he had experienced over the past year. Yet, despite the darkness of the theme, the collection ended on a note of hope and simplicity, with lightweight dresses that could be worn back to front.
The soundtrack for the show was particularly poignant, with Yamamoto himself singing Leonard Cohen’s “I’m Your Man” at the beginning and a bittersweet Japanese melody at the end. The designer’s trademark hat and guitar were also embroidered onto a zip-front shirt, adding a personal touch to the collection.
Overall, Yohji Yamamoto’s fall/winter 2023/2024 collection was a masterful display of form, texture, and emotion. The designer’s ability to convey meaning through his garments is a testament to his talent and vision, and this collection is sure to be remembered as one of his finest works.
Later,
Leticia Dare
@leticiadare
