Ann Demeulemeester reconnects to the brand with the third collection under her creative direction-Text Giorgia Cantarini

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Ann Demeulemeester’s new Fall Winter 2022 2023 season was the third collection under a renewed creative direction, after a winter and summer collection that brought the brand back to its roots, helping to recreate an imaginary of the House’s archetypes. The Ann Demeulemeester Fall Winter 2023 collection places the emphasis on clothing shared between men and women, who walk fast in a fluid gait, with regal nonchalance, an essential color palette and lots of leather. Powerful,minimal and practically genderless.

With an emphasis on streamlined profiles, elongated silhouettes with deep slits are paired with luxe materials such as shiny laminated sheepskin, soft cashmere boiled wool and hand-embroidered pinstripes. The classic three-piece suit is disassembled throughout menswear and womenswear, while portraying soft, symmetrical and snug shapes, with belted wrap jackets, peacoats, layered collarless jackets with matching vests and detachable collars. The extra-long garments in brushed wool and leather brought back the typical biker/rocker jacket but quintessentially chic. There were no flashy accessories, except the hats with an important crown or the suits adorned with crystal fringes, designed for the evening.

The winter collection continues along the path of exploration of the essence of the brand, revisiting its heritage of iconic pieces in a successful mix of elegance, comfort and refinement.


Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.