Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 22 by Aybuke Barkcin

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Virginie Viard tapped to contemporary artist Xaiver Veilhan to design an equestrian inspired stage for Chanel’s latest haute couture show, integrating canine paths, mini-golf courses with constructivist motifs made of modest materials. To start the show with a grand opening, Chanel ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi rode across the racecourse runway on horseback in a black tweed jacket.

Though the theme of the stage suggested equestrianism, the collection didn’t feature signs of it. Instead, it started with a set of tweed suits styled with trousers, setting the tone for a light, modest and feminine season. Sheer midriff cut dresses, transparent tiered skirts, airy feather trousers, collarless tweed ensembles, colourful feather trims on short dresses, an embroidered flower dress with bra straps were the highlights of the collection, incorporating different textures and silhouettes to bring the 1920s aesthetic to today. Though the line-up became more interesting with each look, the garments still lacked presence and strength, portraying a more ready-to-wear essence rather than couture.

The show ended with a bridal look, with a model carrying a small bouquet of dark flowers, honouring the late Chanel muse Gaspard Ulliel, who passed away in a tragic skiing accident a week ago.


Aybuke Barkcin

Aybüke Barkçin is an art director, photographer, curator and writer that looks at fashion through the lens of political and societal dynamics. She completed her master's Creative Direction in POLIMODA, Italy and has a background in International Relations and Graphic Design. Her work can be found in her website: