Diversity was designer Ryuhei Oomaru’s guide. Expanding beyond the brand’s namesake product, wool shirting, gabardine trousers, and bias dresses collectively constructed a foundation for the Fall collection. Styled with the overcoat, these garments fashioned a unity between modern and traditional designs.

 

The heart of the matter was not a distinction between uptown or downtown, but of inclusivity, for people of all sexualities, somatotypes, and age – conveyed in the casting- to enjoy. “All body types are unique” was the message Oomaru shared with his audience at The Dance, where the music venue became a runway show. Models of all ages walked down a spiral staircase onto a painted white stage — that signifies a communal and transformable space to the art world — then continued the runway through the crowd. It was a unique show to the creative space, a testament to the mélange character of New York City.

 

 

In a similar fashion, the overcoat personified the vibrant, graphic, and outspoken city of inspiration. When contemplating what it means to “wear New York,” the designer had a lot of material, and ground to cover. Capes, a hooded overcoat, and an asymmetrical jacket made of awning material, and printed with jumbo texts, colorful block letterings, and the face of Lady Liberty made a statement in more ways than just dramatic. Fitted, billowing, oversized, and belted. Overcoat indefinitely held the final look. If New York City’s diverse culture and architecture could offer a vision for fashion, this brand materializes the city’s voice – no need for shelter where fashion speaks volumes.

 

Valerie McPhail

Valerie McPhail is a New York-based writer on things of style and artistic expression. She has a portfolio of writing for both fashion and art publications. Although she enjoys covering fashion news and supporting new designers, her favorite subject to explore is the experience of fashion and how life is communicated through clothing. She believes there is a lot to be said about this.