steventai, fall 2018 – text by Silvia Bombardini

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Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

 

What’s the steventai girl doing in a casino? But counting cards of course. In the Gran Lisboa in Macau, a MIT Blackjack Team of one. Next, with deep pockets full of tokens, she runs to the mall. In the designer’s mind, she’s what you’d call a noveau riche: whose plunge from the nerd’s worn comforts into luxury is driven less by style than a mathematic rush. The result, as per the brand’s signature, is once again incongruously endearing. Fall 2018 unfolds like a too-good hand, from geeky and roomy, more masculine hand-me-downs – corduroys and gathered men’s trousers, Macau’s rain ponchos and tracksuits surreptitiously rendered in woven organza stripes – to luxe must-haves and statements such as satin pyjamas, fur coats and a trench – but out of size or cropped in half, or fluffed from a brushed jacquard that matches the casino’s upholstery. The garments morph along with the wearer, their complexity balanced by the resort city’s pastel colourway, legacy of its Portuguese days. London’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office, where the looks debuted on Sunday, also morphed: by way of an Augmented Reality presentation in collaboration with Lucas Films, the Durbar Court became Macau, then a jungle. Lit up and lush, like this girl.

 

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Later,

Silvia