“I am a sky where spirits live.
Stare into this deepening blue,”
…
“When lovers moan,
they’re telling our story.”
Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Our cue to Ashish’s show last night was Like this, a 13th century poem by Rumi – for spring, Gupta harks back to his native India, to weave a tale of bliss and lust. Under a canopy of intertwined fairy lights blinking down at the sequinned garments below, with a live performance by Baluji Shrivastav playing the sitar in the background. There are some slightly corny touches, wilfully so, particularly in the styling – like a young man wearing a loose see-through organza shirt and glittery jeans, both in bloom with rose embroideries, carrying himself a bunch of red roses, each wrapped in its plastic own sheet – a whiff of Bollywood romance. But the spiritual side is strong, too: some models wear yellow or blue face paint, like goddess Kali, long bejewelled veils and trains. They’re all barefoot, and one enchanter in a beaded gold dress, perched just on the one shoulder and opposite hip, walks in with a real snake coiled around his neck. The best looks are those were the opposites met, like a slip dress, obliquely ruffled, over a pair of metallic track bottoms, complete with the three lines along the leg. Or the very first one, worn by Neelam Gill, a spangly red tee spelling out LOVE & DEVOTION over a full skirt embroidered all-over with botanical swirls in silver thread. A similar skirt, in pink, we see on a male model, topped with a pale pastel shirt adorned with shiny paisley arabesques. Ashish, like love, cares nothing for gender. The overlay of jewellery throughout the collection has a surprisingly balancing effect: rather than muses of unattainable status, the models could be children playing dress up in a treasure trove. Fairy tale princesses and fairy tale princes, in bubblegum gowns and rubies – tiaras and anklets, nose rings and drop earrings, bejewelled braids and gold-painted nails.
All my best,
Silvia
