Dear Shaded Viewers,

Thursday night after patiently waiting for the last show of the day scheduled to start at 9pm, they stood there a great while as waiting in front of the entry of a concert. Tatsuro Horikawa presented its new collection jammed into a room full of heat, pumped up with binary sounds of electro in the Eiffel building of LA GENERALE.

Messages of dark poetry, printed across the chest and slogans on belts, I ENJOY LUXURY. I ENJOY LUST, I BREATHE ALL THIS, MOUTH IN THE DUST. The presentation of the urban wear brand is in tune with the youth of 2016 : in search of new ideals and rules. This is a current aesthetic reflection of the realistic /juvenile statement.

A line, fitting a casting of young men, survivors, thugs and skinheads look alike. The kids were getting pumped up as they were entering the ring of the catwalk, and for most of them it seemed it was for the first time. Shuffling teeth protections in their months, giving the jaw attitude, and dive in the over heated industrial arena. The collection entitled KNIVES,  is revealing a full set of black and often black as for JULIUS favorite shade.  This season he has integrated additional colors of grey and white, among the leather skirts on leggings, black rags and long coats, the hoodies, the baggies and skinny pants with the sexy break on the knees… Luxury for everybody would probably not be luxury anymore – but at least, it is the youngster’s rights to ask for quality before quantities, and ethics before profit.

Fashion being reflection, of our society, where the message matters, this dark spirit of youth, so far from the blinding death, is also what made it so appealing, when we were young.

But in our world of consumerism, the nice thing is, that nothing lasts. Still hoping for a change, the goths-post-punk/fashionistas of the all-black urban-wear styles are all clapping to JULIUS.

Poetry is a vector, messages on fashion too. Let’s wait for next season’s message, because we still want to believe that from chaos rises the light! Since all you get is what you seed, until the next move and more surprises, they surf so many waves of inspirations of the past. With the never-ending promise of more darkness, the market for sure will survive. Everything in a cycle shall pass, but are the kids alright?


Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.