Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
That the Pam Hogg muse lives by her rules is part of the reason why we know and love her, and a perfunctory look at the crowded front row in Freemasons’ Hall, from Bishi to Rossy de Palma, is enough to reassure us that this remains the case. A handful of seasons ago, Pam’s not-for-sale COURAGE collection was dedicated to Pussy Riot – now for spring 2016, LAWLESS pays tribute to the romantic figure of the highwayman, the bandit. It’s a stiff white cape that opens the show, with stitched-on felt letters that spell: “give a man a gun and he’ll rob a bank / give a man a bank and he’ll rob the world”. The trademark tinfoil catsuits come this time adorned with far-west fringes, at the hipbone, calf, shoulder and all along the sleeve, and are worn with polka-dot kerchiefs around the neck or wrist, as the done thing is in gang subcultures. Pam herself is wearing a black one, when she comes through at the end to another round of applause. A seasonal new entry are strawberry Toile de Jouy long coats with very round lapels, their pastoral scenes lined with silver and modelled in golden lace-up platforms by the Disco Smack DJ duo, a recurring feature at her shows and favourites of Pam’s. And there are oversize Bonnie Parker’s berets sparkled with pinball studs – as are a rose gold tailleur with candyfloss fringes, a spiky bikini, the flared yellow culottes of a tonal total-look and enormous round skirts that sway by, orange or white.
Photos by Simon Armstrong.