Kasper Czerwinski reports on Fashion Philosophy Poland in Lodz photos: 9. FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland, phot. Lukasz Szelag/Moda Forte

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Click on the images to identify the collections.

 Dear Diane, Dear Shaded Viewers,

The 9th edition of FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland in Lodz  was held on the  15th -20th of October. 37 fashion shows in 5 days. Apart from the shows there was a special Concept Store and Showroom area with over 100 brands. Fashion Week Poland in Lodz is the best place to know Polish young designers. Especially the “OFF Schedule” part which is dedicated to emerging talents. On the smaller stage of FWP are the more avant-garde, street fashion, and often rebellious collections the other side is “Designer Avenue” where the more established designers show.

Kas Kryst (OFF Schedule)

If is this possible to connect three decades like ’60, ’70, and ’80 into one collection that is what Katarzyna Kryst did. She pulled out what is most significant within 30 years of fashion history  and culture and moved it into the XXI century. So, we have swinging sixties, with its freedom, and  fancy seventies with bright colours, and finally eighties with a mix of glamorous unconventional fabrics and geometric patterns. Kas Kryst created a streetwear collection for boys and girls of XXI century.

Paulina Matuszela?ska (OFF Schedule)

 “Homely” by  Paulina Matuszela?ska gives us the subtle and picturesque side of nature. Delicate embossing, embroidery and quilting on simple forms of soft and rounded contours the clothes reference  satellite pictures of the Earth. Palette of natural colours such as green, black, white and cobalt reinforces the organic  impression.

Herzlich Willkommen (OFF Schedule)

This young brand is known for its unique prints. This time the designers are trying to connect  a sports costume with street style in a smart way. The collection is fresh and light due to transparent and glossy futuristic technical materials. THe sporty character is broken by knitwear and checkered patterns.

Joanna Startek ( Designers Avenue)

Men’s collection named (Un)Real look like quite simple clothing, but the devil is in the details. The sign of Joanna Startek’s design is the precision in finishing. Really unreal part of designs are backpacks buttoned to coats and clutches to shirts, details of shorts with vertical piping on the sides, and discreet prints on the tyvek jackets. In Startek collection: extensive trench like coats, light bomber jackets, elegant shirts, printed blouses, and shorts.

Nenukko (Designers Avenue)

How to describe the Nenukko’s “Quit” collection style? Many words come to mind such as fresh, youthful, sunny, fancy… for me it was the most juicy show of this edition of Fashion Week Poland. Variety of materials and styles is an expression of the wealth of designers creativity. They very smoothly and fancifully treated the washed-out denim, especially in shorts and dungarees or in the coat with mid-arm sleeves. Stylistically, the collection is like a nostalgia for nineties, but with a modern streetwear scent. Patchwork patterns, 3D prints and grunge like grid are blend in an innovative way. Sunny gold swim suits, light blue of blouses and shorts, pale grey of dresses and white as a background are the guiding colours. And look at the hairstyles created by Jaga Hupa?o!

Podsiadlo (Designers Avenue)

I love this transparent black flyer jacket in spring-summer 2014 “Hold Me Tight” collection of Marcin Podsiadlo! The designer attempts to show the lightness of air and freedom that comes with it. But for starting point of his collection was the movie “Streetwise” of Martin Bell, and the work of Christo & Jeanne – Claude. Although the collection is very boyish and lightweight, it is not devoid of symbolic meanings. Designer in a very clever way used fetish theme appearing in today’s men’s fashion. Flyer jackets, track suit pants and sports shoes with white socks pulled up high, blouses, jeans, loose t-shirts – this entire wardrobe of modern street boy, but shown in not so obvious way.

Best,

Kasper Czerwi?ski 

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Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.

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