Dear Shaded Viewers,
Balancing roughness with refinement is one of Christelle Kocher’s key strengths, further evidenced in the apparent disorder of her last show, which took place in La Canopée, the shopping mall located in the Parisian neighbourhood of les Halles. Models were walking briskly, mixing with onlookers and insiders who sat on benches to watch them, which gave a bizarre feel to the whole presentation. Despite reclaiming the street as her territory -and placing her clothes firmly within reality- the French designer keeps elevating sportswear shapes to turn them into precious garments, often embroidered, trimmed or embellished. Dresses looked fresh and graphic, made in dégradé silk or crisp cotton, while coloured feathers -an obsession this season- appeared on sophisticated camisole tops and sensual dresses. Tracksuits were reworked in bright silk or lace, using patchwork techniques to striking effect. It was interesting to see Kocher explore her own contradictions, oscillating between brutal urgency and slow craftsmanship.
