Dear Shaded Viewers,
Yesterday, under the gilded ceilings of the Petit Palais, Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli delivered a couture show that felt like a fever dream—equal parts Surrealist art installation and cinematic noir. If you came for a spectacle, you got it: Cardi B arrived in a sculptural bustier gown, clutching a live raven, setting the tone for a collection that was as much about drama and symbolism as it was about fabric and form.
From the moment the first model stepped onto the runway, it was clear this wasn’t just another couture show. The space buzzed with anticipation—celebrities like Dua Lipa, Hunter Schafer, and Karol G mingled with editors and clients, all waiting to see how Roseberry would riff on Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy this season.
Roseberry stripped the palette to black, white, and silver, with occasional flashes of red. The effect was stark, modern, and slightly ominous—like a Surrealist film rendered in high-definition.
The “Eyes Wide Open” column dress, embroidered with hand-painted irises and metallic lashes, was a showstopper—a literal and figurative eye-catcher that paid homage to Schiaparelli’s collaborations with Dalí.
Instead of the house’s signature corsetry, Roseberry played with padding and augmentation—hips and waists were exaggerated with gathered tulle and silk organza, while saddle motifs appeared as both bustiers and wing-like accents on metallic moto jackets.
Sharp-shouldered jackets, matador-inspired tailoring, and column gowns evoked both 1940s Paris and 1980s power dressing, all filtered through a distinctly modern lens5.
The collection pulsed with references to the chaos of the interwar era and the uncertainty of today’s world. Reflective embellishments—sequins, metallic beading, and high-shine satins—caught the light and the eye, while the mood oscillated between dark glamour and playful provocation
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A red satin trompe-l’œil dress paired with a bejeweled, beating heart necklace (a nod to Dalí and Elsa’s Surrealist roots) was pure Schiaparelli: witty, weird, and unforgettable.
Daniel Roseberry’s “Back to the Future” collection for Schiaparelli was a love letter to the house’s Surrealist DNA. By stripping away color and doubling down on form, texture, and symbolism, he delivered a show that was as wearable as it was visually arresting. If couture is about fantasy, this was a lucid dream—one that left its audience wide awake and wanting more.
