Maria Grazia Chiuri, ever a source of memorable slogans—from her Dior mantra “We Should All Be Feminists” to her new Fendi declaration “Less I, More Us”—made her debut in Milan with a collection centred on connection and collective identity.
Exploring the idea of a shared wardrobe, one that everyone can desire and wear, Chiuri proposed a transversal approach to menswear and womenswear, where the same design language moves between both, distinguished only by proportion. As sisterhood has always been central to Fendi’s philosophy, she examined what it means to exist as part of a team, further emphasising product durability and versatility. As the show notes put it, “before one can truly be part of a team, one must first be balanced as an individual.”
Animal prints appeared through zebra overcoats and tote bags, followed by Western-inspired double-denim and handsomely tailored blazers and suit trousers. Silk gowns in red, white, and black draped across the body, contrasted by lace dresses with more structured, angled shoulders.
Fur appeared both classic and new: rich brown coats and collars sat alongside lime-green versions and zebra-trimmed waistcoats. Confirmed by Fendi, the jackets were reworked from existing skins, a gesture that hopefully appeased the fur protesters gathered outside the show. Leather biker jackets and trenches in mustard yellow and distressed black added a more daytime feel.
As an homage to one of Fendi’s iconic predecessors Karl Lagerfeld, models wore small white leather collars. For other accessories, Chiuri collaborated with the estate of Italian sculptor and poet Mirella Bentivoglio on jewellery and graphic T-shirts. The house’s signature Baguette bag made several appearances, while footwear came in the form of biker boots, fur-backed stilettos, and chunky platform heels covered in the same zebra print seen on coats and waistcoats.
A collaboration with artist Saag Napoli brought a playful twist to Fendi’s usual sensuality. Using “affirmations with limits,” phrases such as “Rooted but not stuck” and “Present but not dependent” appeared on football scarves and T-shirts, nodding to the idea of self-definition being essential to a successful team. The collaboration rounded off the show with an easy mix of individuality and unity, signalling an exciting new moment for the Roman house.
