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At this season in Paris, Egonlab opens with a poem about the demons within, those who hide in plain sight, quickly immersing us in their ambient narrative. Finger on the pulse, intense, sexy, bold and irrevocably chic- Egonlab sets the stage for a collection steeped in magical realism and exaggeration, all while maintaining their signature finesse.
Through clever light play, as the models begin to walk onto the runway, their shadows tower ominously alongside them, their black figures ebbing and flowing against white concrete walls, reinforcing the show’s concept and enveloping us in its cinema. As the collection unfolds in this spectral tone, Egonlab discreetly capitalizes on the trendiness of maximal and unexpected layering, asymmetric tailoring, and bondage inspirations- done with impeccable takes on classic tailoring meets street wear silhouettes, and by use of sumptuous materials integrated with pops of powerful color to a pallet of muted, dark neutrals. The full range of masks, hoods, and subtle disguise are explored throughout the collection- Peeking out from a sleek black long asymmetric overcoat with oversized padded shoulders, long feathers in striking shades of obsidian, cobalt blue, and soft egg-shell climb up the models necks. Sculpting their chiseled, beautiful faces, this form functions as both a shroud and as an ornate frame. Like a magician’s clever misdirection, their curated beauty is underscored, and coincidentally veiled.
Tops entirely made of feathers! Most notably one that covers the models entire upper half, eyes piercing through his blue feathered face. Half-man, half-bird, totally transfixing.
In another look, a slinky black asymmetrical gown where one side reveals a strapless bodice with a plunging, draped neckline secured by a sleek metal bar, the other sweeps across the back to veil the model’s head giving her an ominous dune-esque elegance.
Between these more theatrical ensembles, marketable relief is found in looks which lean more street-wear but nevertheless continue to play with this idea of hiding behind one’s clothes. In one, two slightly varying Scottish tartan print hoods are cinched in layers around the head, nesting the wearer’s face within. In another, the layering of multiple chemises and outerwear is kept subtle by staying within a crisp and subdued color palette of light blue, pale yellow, taupe and grey checkered prints that complement each other by tonally radiating outwards like the petals of a flower.
Bolder looks maximize the materiality of the collection. A biker jacket with thigh high matching chaps- Sherpa lining spilling out the seams, or an oversized Bordeaux and cherry-red tartan print coat with an exaggerated matching scarf and pants- all trimmed with thick cord fringe. To romanticize, play-with, and obscure the codes of masculine fashion trends, without undermining the stature of the collection is a feat Egonlab pulls off with streamlined grace and restrained whimsy. Gorgeous tailoring and textural richness string together the worlds of trend and fantasy. Theatrical, but not costumey- Egonlab blurs the lines between character and creature.
Egonlab, if you’re a bird, I’m a bird.
Xx
Rianna
