Shiatzy Chen’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, unveiled in Paris, gallops between grace and rebellion, channelling the spirit of the horse as both muse and metaphor. Under the title “Unstill,” the house transforms the notion of “the horse unstill” into a meditation on freedom, movement and feminine power.
Blending influences from the 1970s hippie with an equestrian sensibility, the result is an upbeat yet refined collection steeped in lightness and liberation. The palette shifts fluidly from tobacco brown and coffee to verbena blue, punctuated by neon fuchsia, cobalt and sun-washed stone. These shades trace a journey, moving between understated daywear and bolder evening silhouettes.
For Chen, this season placed a larger focus on youth and movement. Flowing skirts and sheer fabrics reinforced this sense of effortlessness, while tailored suiting introduced balance and structure. Flared trousers met lace blouses and waistcoats, and layers of chiffon and twill brought a soft, unhurried rhythm. Relaxed suits in supple fabrics maintained their shape without stiffness, and the “long-on-long” styling elongated the silhouette.
Additional key pieces were incorporated through menswear looks. Mesh tops, jodhpur shorts, leather trousers and cropped jackets all merged sport, tailoring and sensuality. Craftsmanship remained the heart of the collection: cross-stitch embroidery, ribbon detailing and patchwork finishes honoured handwork traditions while feeling distinctly modern. Saddle-curved pockets and lace shorts offered subtle nods to the equestrian theme, their lightness offset by careful construction.
To add to the air of playful nonchalance, braided silk scarves became headbands, neckerchiefs or bag adornments, while saddle-shaped handbags and jewellery inspired by horseshoes added subtle symbolism. Footwear echoed the same balance with reworked Mary Janes, platform sandals and brogues.
For SS26, Shiatzy Chen’s playful designs embodied the boundless spirit that only a horse could symbolise. Through an intricate yet wearable collection, the show offered a sense of joy and ease often missing amid the relentless pace of fashion week and the industry at large.
