Dear Shaded Viewers,
For Autumn/Winter 25, Erdem’s collaboration with artist Kaye Donachie, a fellow RCA graduate, stems from a deeply personal connection. Inspired by Donachie’s evocative portrait of his late mother, Erdem explores her unique ability to capture the essence of a subject beyond mere likeness. Donachie’s ethereal, instinct-driven portraits, described as “auras” and “footnotes in time,” translate into a collection of archetypal feminine silhouettes, juxtaposed with her paintings’ spectral palette and emotional depth.
Erdem translated Donachie’s ethereal aesthetic into a collection of archetypal feminine silhouettes. Think elegant dresses, sculpted forms, and flowing lines that served as canvases for Donachie’s artistic vision. “I’ve never worked with anyone alive before, actually!” The designer said at the post show briefing.
The colour palette, drawn directly from Donachie’s paintings, featured a spectral range of blues and nudes, lending an otherworldly quality to the garments. As the models glided down the runway, one look stood out a black strapless dress that seemed to be encased in scrunched flowers— a personal favourite of mine. Donachie’s artwork was not merely referenced but integrated, with her portraits appearing on bags, skirts, and dresses, blurring the lines between art and fashion.
In a fashion landscape that often prioritises fleeting trends, the Erdem AW25 show was a poetic and moving experience, a reminder that fashion, at its best, can be a profound form of storytelling.
Later,
Bethany
