Dear Shaded Viewers,
It’s been 15 years since David Koma, a Georgian-born designer started his namesake brand and took London by storm, over the years his name has become synonymous with fearless femininity and glamour. From dressing pop icons like Beyoncé and Lady Gaga to redefining the boundaries of womenswear, Koma’s designs celebrate the female form, sculpted with powerful and playful precision.
For Koma, a woman’s true identity comes from within. While clothes can be a way to express yourself, they shouldn’t overpower who you are. Ultimately, his designs enhance a woman’s confidence and natural beauty. I spoke to Koma via Zoom where he offered a glimpse into his creative process, the evolution of his brand, and what inspires him to keep pushing the boundaries of fashion.
As we begin the interview I am immediately struck by how down-to-earth and cheerful Koma is. As he recently launched his menswear collection and is celebrating 15 years of his brand it’s clear why he’s so happy. We begin by discussing his origins, how he got into fashion, and how it all began. He transports me back to the time when he was 9 years old, and I imagine a young David Koma, full of imagination and a keen interest in shoes and bags whilst having a good eye for style. However, his first collection came about when he was 12 years old in art school. When asked in an interview after the competition, what brand he would love to work for when he grows up, his answer was none other than Mugler -funny how life turns out!- Like so many before him Koma studied at the prestigious Central Saint Martins University under the tutelage of Louise Wilson, After completing his MA in 2009, he launched his namesake label David Koma. “The collection thankfully got a lot of attention. A lot of awards and a lot of press.”
As the years progressed an abundance of celebrities flocked to Koma’s brand for bespoke looks and red carpet ensembles. “I was super lucky to be embraced by tons of celebrities, and that the first person was Beyoncé.” A big moment for the then rising star in the fashion industry, was Queen Bey wearing a custom made look for her Oscars opening act celebrating the King Richard movie. “That was a wow moment for me, especially because it was the opening of the Oscars and she was in full David Koma.” This opened the floodgates – more so than they already were- for David Koma, catapulting his emerging brand to a fashion powerhouse. A-listers from Solange and J-Lo to rising stars like Olivia Rodriguez have all walked the red carpet wearing his designs, proving that his reach transcends generations. “I’m quite blessed to have so many incredible women across so many different fields, all wearing and embracing me on the red carpet, which is a beautiful thing for a designer.”
Fast forward to 2024 Koma is 15 years in and loving it! He recently launched his first ever men’s collection. When asked how designing for women differed to designing for men Koma described it very eloquently, “When I design for women it’s not even a choice, I live it and it’s normally pure fantasy.” Most designers have a particular theme or muse when designing but for menswear, he admits it was more of a practical thought. Not a simple translation of his womenswear designs but a thought and feeling that blossomed into the daring collection we see today. “As a designer you host a lot of events, launches, parties and store openings. I always found myself wishing my male friends were there with me.” Once he had a clear vision of what to do, designing the menswear collection became easier.
Unveiled during Milan Fashion Week, the collection embodies the concept of “Club Koma” – a world that’s both glamorous and playfully provocative. The lookbook includes models showcasing the designs against a backdrop of gym equipment. Crisp white vests and boxers offer a clean base, while knitted wrestling singlets and leather thongs hint at a more daring side. Koma’s signature feather embellishments add a touch of theatrical flair, leaving a lasting impression on viewers. “For this first collection it was important for me to think about my circle of friends, majority of who are artistic and to really celebrate that angle. I hope to really define menswear over the next three collections.” Inspired by modern and classic ballet, the collection has key themes from Koma’s most recent womenswear offering seamlessly weaved into it.
Koma explains that the favourite part of the design process for him is seeing his designs come to life. “When you put yourself into a piece, you know it was hard work but you see it now and it looks amazing and you don’t care what anybody else thinks! That’s the best feeling.” A believer in focusing on positive things, he emphasises that great success comes from having a strong team behind him “I’m surrounded by amazing people, across all the departments in the business and I really love them. That to me is my greatest achievement.”
Building a strong team over the years is no mean feat in an ever changing industry like fashion. He explains that the years have been good to him, providing him with great experiences and maturity. One such experience being working and designing for Paris fashion Maison Mugler. Koma cites this period of his journey as challenging yet special “It was a very special moment. Like any big house in Paris it was major but because it was so specific, thinking back to the interview I had at 12 years old. I couldn’t believe I received the call. It helped me see things on a much bigger scale.” This skill of seeing things on a bigger scale is something -he says- he still practices today.
Celebrating 15 years this year, Koma explains that it’s just the beginning for the brand and that he’s excited for what’s to come – hinting that his next menswear collection will have a lot of sports elements in it- as well as the development of the accessory collection which continues to thrive. A constant drive to improve and move on to the next level is something that the designer is focused on. “There are a lot of exciting things coming up in regards to menswear. Shoes and bags also being launched and developed. Next steps are to take David Koma from a brand to a fashion house, making it more of an institution.” Exploring different angles of his artistic vision, David Koma is set to continue taking the industry by storm and not just on the red carpet but in both the retail and lifestyle space. With his upcoming womenswear show fast approaching, it is with eager excitement that we await the Spring/Summer fashion season.
Later,
Bethany
