Dear Shaded Viewers,
If there is an artist who embodies a rebellion against body shaming, it is undoubtedly the Australian artist, costume designer, and couturier based in London, Michaela Stark. My first encounter with her work was through her custom-made lingerie pieces, designed to sculpt the body in a manner reminiscent of Hans Bellmer, reordering its shape with a gentle touch of bondage. Although her creations may not directly draw inspiration from Shibari—Japanese rope tying that evolved from the Hojojutsu techniques used by samurai warriors in feudal Japan to restrain prisoners—they share a common thread of an intimate and sensual experience.
Stark elevates corsetry to new heights, challenging traditional notions of beauty. She honors the individuality of the body, celebrating forms that defy conventional ideals. Her work transcends mere body reshaping; it redefines beauty in a way that is both provocative and deeply respectful of personal uniqueness.
Michaela Stark was invited by Tate Britain to create a performance inspired by the Sargent and Fashion Exhibition. As seen above, she dons her own full couture ensemble. The corset, crafted from invisible tulle with silk dupion detailing and hand-embroidered eyelets, exemplifies her meticulous artistry. The skirt features an invisible tulle base with a hand-pleated silk organza overlay and crystal embroidery. The train is fashioned from invisible tulle and delicate Violette. Complementing the look are tulle gloves and maroon leather tabi heels, both by Maison Margiela.
The performance was part of “Madame X and the Art of Taking Risks,” curated by Rebecca Gremmo. Stark drew inspiration from the negative responses to the exhibition, both in the media and in private conversations with other creatives. A prevalent opinion within the art world is that Sargent’s work is ‘above’ fashion, and that reducing his paintings to a superficial craft diminishes their value. In response, Michaela aimed to celebrate fashion as an art form and a craft by staging a fashion performance in a self-designed couture gown.
She placed herself in a display box, reminiscent of the gowns featured in the Sargent exhibition, presenting fashion as a form of art. Attendees were invited to draw her, akin to how students sketch historical artworks in museums.
“The most brave and important thing I have ever done as an artist is to create and wear fashion. I believe this holds true for Sargent too, who faced backlash and had to leave Paris due to the provocative way he painted a dress (specifically, a strap) on Madame X. Fashion, with its intricate relationship to the body and perceived sexuality, is among the most provocative forms of art in the world,” said Michaela Stark.
Later,
Diane
