Dear Shaded Viewers,
Spring/Summer 2025 was a season of discontent for Courrèges’ creative director, Nicolas Di Felice. Unpredictably cold and rainy Parisian weather cast a shadow over the usual optimism associated with the season. However, Di Felice channelled this frustration into a collection that expertly navigates the line between classic functionality and summery escape.
The Courrèges SS25 collection, while technically a pre-collection, unfolds like a narrative. The opening act features a quartet of trench coats, their structured forms a nod to the persistent chill. These familiar silhouettes are then reimagined in lightweight fabrics, hinting at the sunshine Di Felice craved. As the collection progresses, it becomes a search for forgotten summer adventures. Satin, canvas, and raw denim – materials synonymous with casual summer wear – take centre stage. 70s-inspired details, like asymmetric button tabs, nod to Courrèges’ heritage while adding a touch of nostalgic whimsy.
Di Felice revisits the upside deconstruction from his AW24 collection, this time with a focus on lighter fabrics at its core. Signature mesh tops in a distinctive “magic square” pattern in both men’s and women’s, feature eye-catching graphics inspired by hiking trail markers. Elsewhere the new “Friday Bowling” bag, with its baguette-style silhouette and generous size, continues the energetic theme of the season, becoming a standout accessory.
Distilling the essence of summer into a design language, the collection is full of playful nods to athletic wear that peeks through exquisite detailing, reimagined in classic daywear silhouettes. From asymmetric button tabs inspired by André Courrèges’ SS70 collection, to layered waistbands and oversized belt loops that mimic climbing harnesses, it explores revitalised juxtapositions throughout.
Di Felice transforms the gloom into a catalyst for creativity, offering an escape into sunnier days through meticulously crafted clothing. It’s a collection that is both forward-thinking and deeply personal, showing his ability to find beauty even in the midst of a downpour.
Later,
Bethany
