Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus electrified Paris Fashion Week with her characteristic theatrical drama. Riding high from the opening of Dover Street Market Paris, Kawakubo’s show coincided with la fête de la musique, merging fashion and music in a symphonic spectacle. “I want to hope for some light, even if very small,” Kawakubo’s poignant words set the tone for a collection that played with contrasts and juxtapositions.
The collection’s soundtrack, the London Symphony Orchestra’s performance of Eric Satie’s Parade, a ballet originally created for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, was a perfect match for the eclectic designs. The cacophony of sirens, guns, and typewriters added a layer of complexity, echoing the playful chaos on the runway. Models sported whimsical headpieces crafted entirely from vibrant hair clips, evoking Picasso’s cubist costumes from the original ballet.
Kawakubo’s mix-media storytelling was evident in the extravagant cavalry coats with ruffled edges, which transformed into clown collars under jackets, demonstrating her fearless spirit. The collection transitioned from stark black-pink hues to bold floral prints, imbuing it with surreal vibrancy.
Hair played a starring role this season, with Takeo Arai’s towering mohawks and stiff bobs adorned with multicolored clips creating an unforgettable visual. Kawakubo’s Homme Plus tailoring ventured into new, vivid territories with pale pink froths spilling from fuchsia jackets, oversized blazers with paisley prints and extra arms, and sparkling pinstriped tuxedos draped in tentacle-like bows.
The orchestral ‘Parade’ soundtrack enhanced the performative essence of the collection, featuring velvet jester collars, ruffled evening coats, and trench coats with glistening polka dots beneath layers of black tulle. The garments entertained with their radical reinterpretation of familiar styles.
This season, Kawakubo reimagined the Elizabethan ruff with a distinctly CdG twist—raven black collars even adorned shoes. Deconstructed tailoring revealed the inner workings of garments through gauze layers, exposing pocket pouches and lining panels. Hot pink looks, adorned with fabric bunches and voluminous tulle shorts, added a vibrant punch to the collection. The playful twist of every model’s hair covered in multicolored clips suggested a joyful, childlike chaos.
Later,
Leticia
