photos by Alessandro Simonetti @zuekster concept and styling by Giorgia Cantarini
Dear Shaded Viewers,
The collaboration that began in 2023 with the Kering Material Innovation Lab (Kering MIL) continued this year. Kering MIL, established in Milan in 2013 as an internal research facility of the Kering Group, has been at the forefront of minimizing the environmental impact of its brands by leading the transition towards a sustainable supply chain. With a decade of experience in sustainability, Kering MIL’s role in this year’s S|STYLE was pivotal, providing a practical approach to accelerate the integration of innovative, low-impact materials and processes into the designers’ collections.
This year, each designer unveiled a look themed around “circular luxury.” This concept emphasized the use of expert knowledge from selected producers to develop specialized supply chains and networks for creating high-quality recycled textile materials blended with virgin fibers, all in accordance with Kering’s Sustainability Standards. The materials featured ranged from denim, jersey, canvas, and twill to those made from agricultural waste and both pre- and post-consumer textiles. The recycling processes included both mechanical and chemical methods, incorporating open-loop and closed-loop systems, and utilizing various fibers from cotton to polyester. The aim was to present the finest examples of circular textile solutions.
A highlight of the event was the presentation-performance on June 12th at noon, where these innovative looks were showcased within the exhibition area at Sala delle Nazioni. This moment was a significant display of how the fashion industry can merge luxury with sustainability, setting a new standard for future collections.
The participating brands are Buzigahill (Uganda), Caoihme Dowling (Denmark/Ireland), Denzilpatrick (United Kingdom), Domenico Orefice (Italy), Florania (Italy), Guido Vera (Chile), Permu (China/United Kingdom), TOLO (Italy), Unsung Weavers (Greece), and Viapiave33 (Italy).
Lapo Cianchi, head of communication and special projects at Pitti Immagine and general secretary of the Pitti Discovery Foundation, comments: “As we reach the eighth edition of S|Style, we are proud to have showcased and elevated a generation of international fashion designers through careful curation. Perhaps the first to be fully aware, in both behavior and action, of what it means to engage in creative and original work with a strong cultural knowledge and a sense of responsibility. The collaboration with Kering MIL has added a fundamental element to concretely assist designers in understanding and using the most innovative materials for high-quality, research-driven design.”
Christian Tubito, Director of MIL, states: “In this edition, we have asked 10 emerging brands to dedicate sculptural, genderless, seasonless, over-the-top, and excessive looks to Kering, giving their creativity a chance to reinterpret the concept of circular luxury and the new generation of circular textile solutions. The materials provided to them result from continuous research and development by MIL, which combines the expertise of textile recycling with the heritage of processing virgin fibers, aligned with our Sustainability Standards, and merges the necessary physical-mechanical qualities with aesthetic ones for luxury applications. Our ongoing collaboration with yarn and fabric producers, garnett operators, top makers, and all other selected supply chain operators is key for us because it allows us to co-create new solutions, focusing our efforts on achieving increasingly high-quality results.”
Giorgia Cantarini, journalist, stylist, and curator of S|STYLE, adds: “The most interesting aspect of this partnership is that it represents a real investment in the young talents of tomorrow. The project brings together a collaborative group of designers, training them to work with innovative materials, with a focus on creativity under the aegis of respect for the environment and people. Kering’s expertise and the business world at Pitti Uomo team up in a system for the future of fashion. S|STYLE is the most tangible experience that an emerging designer could wish for.”
For S|STYLE 2024, a completely revamped setup makes the concept of circularity central to the collection presentation, thanks to the creative contribution of by Massimiliano Giannelli, founder and owner of the boutique and e-shop Société Anonyme: “Stonehenge, an ancient assembly of stones arranged in a perfectly circular structure, raises questions about the cyclical nature of time and human existence. Looking to nature’s cycles, sustainable fashion aims to minimize waste and extend the lifespan of products: like Stonehenge, which has withstood the test of time, it leaves a lasting imprint. By adopting circular and sustainable practices, we can hope to preserve not just the planet but the very existence of fashion itself.”
Using sustainable materials, IAMMI, a design studio exploring new aesthetics, highlights the importance of this value within the creative and design process. Stephanie Blanchard, the Italian-French art director at IAMMI, chose the Tofu collection to furnish the spaces of S|STYLE in Fortezza. Seats, benches, and small tables reflect the nature of rocks. A soft core for an engaging tactile experience due to the artisanal processing of recycled foam. S|STYLE also sees support from Cuoio di Toscana, an international leader in the production of sole leather, as it continues its ambitious project to support emerging talents, aligning itself with the sustainable commitment expressed by the brands featured in this eighth edition.
The Consortium will complete the looks with its footwear, featuring the iconic Green Sole, a manifesto of sustainable principles and a declaration aimed at setting the quality and ethical standards of the Consortium. Cuoio di Toscana has always been committed to respecting the environment through the production of vegetable-tanned leather soles, making sustainability a fundamental part of its DNA. This process follows the same ancient and unchanged production methods, serving as a virtuous example of circular economy.
Here are the profiles of the ten brands featured in this edition:
BUZIGAHILL (Uganda) _ Founded by Bobby Kolade, this young brand aims to revitalize the once-thriving Ugandan textile industry with its “RETURN TO SENDER” project, which regenerates Western second-hand clothes. A small team in Kampala selects and redesigns these garments to create a collection for export, focusing on sporty-urban style, upcycled clothing, and fair-trade practices.
CAOIMHE DOWLING (Denmark) _ Based in Copenhagen, Caoimhe Dowling launched her brand after completing an MA at the Royal Danish Academy in “Fashion, Clothing & Textiles.” Known for her fascination with blue, her graduate collection “Turning Blue” reflects on post-pandemic sadness and pays homage to craftspeople from Scotland, Ireland, and Denmark. Stand-out piece: a tweed coat made from double-twisted Donegal Yarns. Influences include punk and the nature-friendly ethos of Kibbo Kift.
DENZIL PATRICK (UK) _ A London-based menswear brand from Founder and Creative Director Daniel Gayle, who was born and raised in Peckham, South London, and is of mixed Irish and Jamaican heritage. Denzilpatrick is named after his grandfathers; a deeply personal homage to his own family history. Alongside his role as Creative Director of Maison Kitsune, Gayle brings to the brand extensive experience from previous senior roles at Philip Lim, Kenzo, and Victoria Beckham. With Denzilpatrick, Gayle explores and develops a community-driven approach to fashion and manufacturing, built on people, personality, relationships, and respect.
DOMENICO OREFICE (Italy) _ In Domenico Orefice’s brand, sportswear and innovation meet tailoring and craftsmanship in a symbiotic and functional coexistence, all underscored by a celebration of Made in Italy. Quality is also ensured thanks to collaborations with prominent Italian institutions such as Polimoda, Gruppo Florence, and Backdoor, with key focuses on planet respect, inclusivity, and innovation.
FLORANIA (Italy) _ A genderless and seasonless independent ready-to-wear brand, Florania offers a sustainable and artisanal total look crafted between Milan and Mantova. It started with an upcycled collection to which designer and illustrator Flora Rabitti added decor inspired by “Solar Punk.” The brand is a pioneer in textile experimentation and collaborates with companies that provide artisanal training to socially disadvantaged groups.
GUIDO VERA _ GUIDOVERACL (Chile) _ Based in Santiago, Chile, this cruelty-free brand was foun-ded by Guido Vera, recognized by Forbes as one of the most influential talents in sustainable fashion evolution. Inspired by the peoples and landscapes of Patagonia, the brand offers minimal, genderless garments made from Chilean cotton, VINYLIFE, cactus leather, GOTS-certified Pima cotton, and high-tech, vegan, biodegradable fabrics, including materials from deadstock from the dictatorship era.
PERMU (China/United Kingdom) _ Based in London, Heyun Pan and Jing Qian conceived Permu to celebrate individuality beyond gender norms. Its design philosophy reinvents the future’s uniform with classic lines that embrace cutting-edge creativity. The brand melds tailoring techniques with high-end textiles such as natural wool, silk, cotton, and both biodegradable and recyclable wool. The garments are minimalistic, elegant, and masculine, showcasing a commitment to meticulous craftsmanship, with every piece undergoing numerous processes to ensure top-quality design and adherence to Eastern philosophy.
TOLO (Italy) _ Founded by Francesco Tolotta, TOLO started as a custom-made project and evolved into a comprehensive collection. From the designer’s artistic background comes a focus on details and color schemes. The style is urban and functional with outdoor and army influences, with a strong focus on environmental impact through conscious fabric selection and production volume, respecting people and the planet.
UNSUNG WEAVERS (Greece) _ A brand deeply rooted in history and culture. It offers a collection of unique hand-made garments that reuse blankets recovered from Mediterranean villages. Materials brea-the new life into the ancient craft of weaving. Each piece is hand-sewn from unique patterns based on archetypes like shepherd capes or monastic robes. Production relies on natural cycles, such as using only rainwater.
VIAPIAVE33 (Italy) _ A forward-looking brand that operates in the present, offering ready-to-wear, ac-cessories, objects, and experiences related to contemporary man’s relationship with nature and tech-nology. The creative project is built on respect and fairness towards humans, animals, and the environ-ment, exploring the intersection of technology and primitivism. Key concepts include fabrics research, sustainability, and the dialogue between tradition and innovation.
Creative Community Portfolio x S|Style
To celebrate the launch of S|STYLE this year, Pitti Uomo has chosen to involve creatives who reso-nate with the work of the ten designers involved in the project. The special look created with the sup-port of Kering MIL was worn by exceptional ambassadors, whose faces and personalities—captured by renowned international photographer Alessandro Simonetti—highlight the diversity and vibrant community that celebrates talent, responsibility, and inclusiveness, giving each face a voice.
Concept & Styling by Giorgia Cantarini / Photos by Alessandro Simonetti.
PHIL AMERICA x DENZIL PATRICK
Multidisciplinary Artist and Founder of Objectsareby @philamerica Phil America is a California-raised artist, creative director, and activist based in Milan. In his work he uses installation, sculpture, performance, photography, video, design and fashion. He also recently co-founded the homeware brand OBJECTS ARE BY and has collaborated with fashion brands like Casa-blanca, Comme des Garçons, and Gentle Monster. He has given three TED Talks, lectured at various universities, and worked with organizations like the UN, ILO and BLM on global art projects.
DAVID BLANK x DOMENICO OREFICE
Singer and Social Activist @davidblank David Blank, originally from the Marche region, grew up singing in church under the influence of his Nigerian preacher father. In Milan, he attracted attention with her first EP, earning collaborations with the likes of Laura Pausini and joining her tours. Committed to social causes, he has worked with big brands and participated in the Disney film “Soul”. His music, which fuses RnB, soul and Afrobeat, ex-plores universal themes. He recently won the “Mission Diversity” award with the song “PRAY.
DAVID HARTONO x PERMU
Co-Founder e Creative Technology Director di MONOGRID @hartonation David Hartono is the Co-Founder and Creative Technology Director of MONOGRID, a digital boutique agency that specializes in immersive technology and experiential marketing for a global luxury clien-tele. With a Master’s degree from the Utrecht School of Arts in the Netherlands, David brings 15 years of experience in visual arts and advanced technical skills to deliver sophisticated projects that encom-pass interactive graphics, visuals, and special effects for video, websites, and projections.
IAMMI STUDIO x GUIDO VERA
Nicolaus Dos Santos & Stephanie Blanchard
Designer & Art Director @iammi.iammi IAMMI is a design studio founded in 2020 by Portuguese designer Nicolau dos Santos and French-Italian art director Stephanie Blanchard. The studio is focused on blurring the lines between classic and contemporary design through the exploration of new and unconventional combinations. The crea-tive process is driven by intuition and deep listening, engaging in extensive research to develop pro-jects that evoke emotional responses, prompting to take action.
EDOARDO MONTI x UNSUNG WEAVERS
Art Curator and Founder of Palazzo Monti @edoardomonti Edoardo Monti, art collector and curator, founded Palazzo Monti in Brescia in 2017 upon returning to Italy after a long stint abroad between New York and London. Palazzo Monti, an artist residency pro-gram and cultural center that animates the family’s thirteenth-century palazzo, is an incubator of con-temporary art recognized by the international public. The space has become a mini-museum and a non-profit exhibition space
EDWARD BUCHANAN x BUZIGAHILL
Fashion Design Consultant and Fashion Director Milano at Perfect Magazine @edward_l_buchanan Edward Buchanan, an American fashion and knitwear designer based in Milan, worked with luxury brands and became the first artistic director of Bottega Veneta. He includes divergent cultural refer-ences imbued with the highest sartorial standards of Italian design, as best seen in his luxury knitwear brand Sansovino6. In 2019, he became director of knitwear design at OFF-WHITE; in 2020, he co-founded We Are Made in Italy, an association created to support Italian BIPOC designers. In 2021, he joined the Perfect Magazine team as Fashion Director Milan.
JULES KIM x CAOHIME DOWLING
Jewellery Designer and Creative Consultant @juleskim Bijules, founded in 2002 and designed by former nightlife impresario Jules Kim, is known for innova-tive and trendsetting silhouettes paired with precious metals and gemstones. Defying both fashion and jewelry standards, pieces from the collection have been seen on Beyonce, Rihanna, Doja Cat and Cardi B. With a keen focus on positive community impact and authentic storytelling, every piece of Bi-jules is hand-made with an eye towards ethics and responsibility.
GIORGIA CANTARINI x FLORANIA
Journalist, Stylist and Curator of S|STYLE x Pitti Uomo @giorgiacantarini Giorgia Cantarini, the founder and curator of the project S|Style for Pitti Uomo, is a fashion editor and stylist passionate about discovering emerging designers, new trends, vintage and sustainable fashion. She is the senior fashion editor of L’Officiel Italy and L’Officiel Hommes Italia. She has worked with many publications, including Rolling Stone, Grazia, Glamour, Vogue Italia, i-D, asvof.com, La Repub-blica, MF Fashion (as sustainability editor), and Hunger.
SARA MOSCHINI x VIAPIAVE33
Head of Fashion Grazia.it @sara_moschini
Sara Moschini is Head of Fashion at Grazia.it and Grazia Factory. She has been working on the Gra-zia website since when streetstyle was still dominated by Japan and the word outfit didn’t have such an annoying sound. She enters the world of fashion thanks to her passion for illustration and photo-graphy, which makes her discover unforgettable brands, faces, and stories. She has lived between Milan and Segrate for seven years, but in her heart and on Instagram she always has her Marche hills on her mind.
JON BRONXL x TOLO
Photographer & Art Director @jonbronxl Jon Bronxl, born in ’89, is a photographer born in Accra, Ghana, and raised in Italy. After finishing his fashion design studies, he worked in various sectors at many clothing companies until he encountered fashion photography. He founded LOCKU NOIR STUDIO to give work to young and smart kids. In 2020, he also founded The Good Neighborhood collective, with which he tries to bring together young Italians of Afro descent and the entire Italian Black youth community.
About the Kering Material Innovation Lab:
In 2013, Kering Group established the Material Innovation Lab (MIL), which is dedicated to sourcing materials and fabrics aligned with Kering’s Sustainability Standards. Based in Milan, MIL has curated a continuously updated fabric collection, enabling the design teams of Kering brands to better understand materials that align with Kering’s Sustainability Standards. MIL also serves as an agent of change within a highly complex supply chain. It focuses on cotton, silk, cashmere, viscose, and polyester. This allows the Group’s fashion houses and key suppliers access to resources, tools, and new solutions to help them make choices that align with the Group’s sustainability strategy in developing their products. Its database uses unique references for suppliers and their fabrics. The fabrics undergo thorough exami-nation and are evaluated against external standards and certifications, as well as an exclusive MIL tool developed per the EP&L methodology.
About S|STYLE:
The S|STYLE project, now in its eighth edition, was launched in 2020 amid the pandemic to address a cultural, social, and market need for discussing, discovering, and showcasing a new way of conceptua-lizing collections and seasonality with respect for the environment and an eye towards the future. The selection of participating brands is based on social and environmental responsibility criteria, core values that define the DNA of each brand while also emphasizing creativity and design. Since its first edition, it has served as a hub that has featured talents such as Connor McKnight, Y/Project with the launch of its “Evergreen” collection, Phipps (which now has a collaboration with Boss), Federico Cina, the winner of “Who’s on Next,” and Uniforme, a finalist for the “Andam prize”. Among the latest recognitions, S.S Daley, the 2022 LVMH Prize winner, presented his first collection at Pitti Uomo in Januay 202
