Christophe's "White Mask" portrait by Javier Barcala
Dear Shaded Viewers,
Finding a compromise between the whims of fantasy and the reality principle is no easy feat and a serious issue for every talented designer. I think Christophe Coppens has found the right answer. His creative range is wide, but coherent, including all kinds of accessories and home objects, as well as more specific projects. He continues making one-off pieces in his Brussels atelier and his hats are beautifully poetic. In this exclusive interview, he talks about his garden, the challenges he faces and why Paul Smith is one of his fashion heroes.
Do you still live in Brussels?
Well, I lived there for twenty years. I moved a year ago and have been living in the countryside outside Brussels. One of my passions in life is plants and flowers.
Great. Then you should really talk to Dries Van Noten. He's mad for gardening. What have you been planting then?
Everything!
And how's it going?
Kind of frustrating actually. I did things bit by bit and have parcels where I'd like to plant stuff, so it's taking time.
A bit like a patchwork thing then?
Yes. I think I probably spent the first year trying to get rid of weeds. Not easy…
A patchwork men's cap from the new collection
Are you inspired by nature then?
Yes, I am, but not in a direct way. I couldn't imagine being away from nature now, even though I lived in the city with small balconies for twenty years. Some of them even looked like the jungle! It's a more ambitious project with my garden now.
Your last collection refers to birds. What do you like about them?
Well, I've always liked birds and cages, not necessarily together though. I've always been obsessed with empty cages. It goes back to my childhood and numerous visits to the zoo where I was always more attracted by empty cages than the ones with animals.
Why?
I don't know. I guess I like their structure, their shape and decorative aspects, like branches or fake rocks. It attracts me. In fact, cages are a leitmotif in my work. They always come back. I also thought of birds, because my winter collections are always based around the notion of protection. A hat, a scarf or some gloves are there to protect you, not only from the elements, but also from the world. I love birds because of their feathers, their nests and their freedom. Then I came up with "Bird Man" and "Bird Woman" which are motifs you can see on some of my scarves for instance. I like exotic birds the most, their colours are just fantastic.
Two bird-inspired hats shot by Javier Barcala
It's a theme that you've used for one of a kind -as well as more commercial- pieces in this collection. How do you take one idea and apply it to all these different categories?
Well, I guess that's the hardest thing a designer has to do, finding a balance between the commercial and creative sides. Everyone is faced with the same dilemma.
How long have you designed accessories for?
19 years. It'll be twenty next year.
And did you start with hats?
I studied theatre in Brussels to become an actor. I worked on my own plays and directed for a while, finding out quickly I was neither a good actor, nor a great director. I needed hats for one of my plays and looked for someone who could help me. I met this milliner in Brussels who was 76 years old. She asked me to come to her place on Saturday afternoons and I learnt everything from her. I ended up with a small collection of hats and got some press, too. That's how everything started.
And were you interested in fashion before?
Yes, definitely. When I was a kid, I used to go to the attic at home to draw and paint for hours. I looked at fashion magazines, too. I guess I was always into it, but never wanted to limit myself to one discipline.
It seems to me that you like touching on several aspects at the same time. You've got multiple lines of accessories, home objects and other projects on the side, too.
Well, it looks that way, but it's not conscious at all. I like knowing what my boundaries are in all these fields, but, at the same time, I guess all I do is accessories. That's how I see it. I know how to make hats, that's what I learnt and what I see as being my real profession.
How do you explain the fact that hats are trendy again?
I think there's a whole new generation who loves buying and wearing them. Maybe we should thank Lady Gaga for this? (mutual laughter)
Who hasn't dressed her anyway?
Well, I haven't made anything for her yet.
A fashion dream come true: Lady Gaga wearing Christophe's hat for Romain Kremer
But Rihanna, Beth Ditto and Roisin Murphy have worn your pieces, haven't they?
True, but with Roisin it was different. It was much more of a collaboration than getting a phone call from a stylist who wants to borrow something. She was really involved and loves fashion. She even wore some of my archive pieces on stage, which was great. We did the whole tour with her and it was really nice.
Are these kinds of collaboration inspiring for you?
Yes, they can be, it always depends on the person, I guess. It's always funny getting, let's say, an email from Patricia Field who wanted to borrow some pieces, even though you have to wait to see if they actually used anything. It brings a smile to people's faces in the atelier. Of course, it gives you more exposure, but we don't really look for it, even though I've been with Totem for two seasons now. It took me 18 years to get a press office in Paris, but I'm glad I did. Actually, I'd love to open a store there, but am still looking for the right partners.
Where do you sell the most?
Our biggest market is Japan, with around 150 clients. The problem now is that it's very difficult to create long-lasting relationships in this business. Buyers change all the time and it's hard building up something with the stores. The market is tough, because the big brands have really developed their accessory lines and people who order the clothes see them as a good complement, so they buy accessories from the same brands, too.
And these brands end up taking all the space.
Exactly. The other thing you get is stores buying into the latest hype for a couple of seasons, before swiftly moving on to the next thing. It's not easy right now. That's why opening our own stores makes perfect sense. We'll see…
There are always surrealistic touches in your work. You're like the Magritte of Belgian fashion, aren't you?
Well, I'm Belgian and cannot hide it. One of my fashion heroes is Paul Smith, because I like the way he has run his business without renouncing his own style. I like classical things with a twist. I like humour, but hate goofy. I like a certain finesse in things.
What you do is very delicate, too.
It's not difficult doing extravagant things, but it's much harder doing something subtle.
Best,
Philippe
