Heads or Tails- Marine Serre’s F/W collection held at La Monnaie de Paris

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Marine Serre’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, showcased during Paris Fashion Week, is a  blend of sustainability, power dressing, and cinematic inspiration. The collection, titled “Heads or Tails,” pays homage to David Lynch’s iconic “Twin Peaks” through its use of red curtains and a checkered floor, reminiscent of the show’s enigmatic red room.

Marine Serre continues her commitment to eco-futurism by incorporating upcycled materials into her designs. This includes the use of repurposed motorcycle leather, coins, antique watches, and furs to create couture pieces.  The collection emphasizes powerful silhouettes with sharp tailoring, structured detailing, and a focus on black, white, and silver hues punctuated by flashes of carmine red what seems to be an important color this season.

The opening look features a moon-tattooed leather catsuit inspired by Irma Vep, while other pieces nod to André Leon Talley and classic haute-bourgeois styles.  The collection explores themes of illusion and paradox, questioning the boundaries between truth and fiction, as well as the tension between time and money.

The show was held at La Monnaie de Paris, a historic mint that produces France’s currency, symbolizing the designer’s resistance to financial dictates while embracing luxury and power. Each guest received a custom coin featuring Serre’s crescent moon emblem, further emphasizing her brand identity and values.

Marine Serre’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is a testament to her ability to merge radicality with refinement. While maintaining her eco-futurist ethos, she presents a more grounded and realistic vision of French chic, blending formalism with casual elements. The collection is a powerful statement on the intersection of fashion, identity, and societal norms, solidifying Serre’s position as a leading voice in sustainable and conceptual fashion.

Marine Serre’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection pays tribute to David Lynch, particularly his surreal universe as seen in Twin Peaks and its iconic Red Room. This inspiration likely stems from the themes of distortion and ambiguity present in Lynch’s work, which align with Serre’s own exploration of illusion and reality in fashion.

The Red Room, a space where time and logic are distorted, resonates with Serre’s interest in challenging perceptions and blurring boundaries between past, present, and future. By recreating this environment for her runway show, Serre aimed to evoke a sense of mystery and surrealism, mirroring Lynch’s ability to blend the real and the abstract.

Moreover, Serre’s commitment to sustainability and upcycling might also find a parallel in Lynch’s subversive approach to storytelling, where unexpected elements are reinterpreted to create new narratives. This alignment allows Serre to use fashion as a form of storytelling that questions conventional norms and values.

Her interest in cinematic narratives and the emotional impact they can have on viewers adds depth and complexity to her designs, making them not just garments but also vehicles for storytelling and social commentary.

Later,

Diane

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Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.

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