Dear Shaded viewers,
Contradiction is central to the work of Yohji Yamamoto, where themes are addressed in unconventional, unexpected manners. At a fleeting glance, his SS25 collection was a dark array of Frankenstein garments, but when asked about what he called “broken outfits”, Yamamoto attributed the craftsmanship to mimicking the imagination of children.
It seemed as if scraps of discarded material were collected over years from his studio floor, when in fact each shred, tear, and jagged edge was part of a meticulous approach to reconstruction. Layers appeared as if they would unravel in a moment, yet each look possessed a commanding, bold energy. Shredded textiles were tied together, intertwining to create asymmetrical, abstract shapes. Every cut and crease was made with purposeful haphazardness, a sophisticated construction emerged from raw seams. Leather, denim, and silver reflections were tangled between chaotic fabric cutouts. All preconceived notions of tailoring were abandoned, in a way only possible by the hands of an expert – one cannot play a game without knowing the rules.
Most of the collection was black. Touches of white, burgundy, somber blues, and greens emphasized its depth. Sheer pinstripe lines became fluid and organic in their folds. Skin was revealed modestly through lace, hiding sensuality in the darkness. Makeup was incomplete, with smokey wings painted on only one side of the face. Hair on one side was half teased and disheveled, and smoothly curled on the other.
The final few looks shifted the tone. After five silky dresses in glowing red, styled with lace veils that covered half the face, the show ended with more questions than answers. In backstage interviews, he was asked about the meaning behind it all, but his answers, delivered with a sly smile, suggested he was simply having fun – perhaps the confusion was part of it all along.
Later,
Eliya
