Officine Générale Spring-Summer 2022 collection by Pierre Maheo text by Colette Tran


Dear Shaded Viewers,

Officine Générale is one of the few physical shows that took place this season. Pierre Maheo is an honest man, that is what I feel when I reflect upon the way he presented this collection. Keeping an image of a Parisian in mind, and at heart, the clothes never pretend to be what they are not. They might be boring and quite monotonous to some, but the decency, practicality and essence of the items themselves are what the clients are looking for. 


The selection of textiles continues to evolve naturally and is acquired from weavers with true expertise. This season, a light and crisp poplin in over-dyed hues is offered. To soften the patterns, certain prints are produced on the reverse side. With the application of tie-dye and even a purple tint, a unique twist occurred. There’s also lilac, which is a symbol for mourning in certain cultures – a statement for the comeback to the new normalcy, and for stepping out of a long hibernation full of sorrows and exhaustion.


Without the use of any water-based treatments, recycled denim has a faded appearance. Tencel has a silky texture and is used to make sweaters in English ribs or to mix with Norman linen. Cotton twills from Japan and Fresco wools are also available, both of which are ideal for warm weather. There is an idea of hybridization, of designing new sets that are not classic suits in the traditional sense: the shirt can be used as a jacket unless it already morphed with the jacket cut. In this sense, the construction of the jackets of this collection is more fluid, in order to meet the designer’s perpetual quest for comfort. When worn, certain pants expand and become virtually straight. Pleats are shaped in a number of ways, with the goal of catering to a wide range of styles and body types. This vital part of a man’s wardrobe is growing more and more important in the clients’ decisions.

Colette Tran

A heuristic ignoramus.