Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,
Roberta Einer’s been ‘gramming flowers—real poppies and reindeer moss as well as frayed-silk peonies— in primary colours since New Year’s, so I knew we were in for some fabulous florals yesterday afternoon. The designer worked with Rebel Rebel, a Hackney florist, to ‘dress’ her show this season, setting the stage for a beautiful collection honouring the lady who taught her to knit and embroider: her grandmother. Ms Einer grew up in an Estonian-Ukranian family in Tallinn, holding her first fashion show at age 12. Now in its fourth year, her brand’s mix of intricate knits and couture techniques have won over buyers for some of retail’s biggest names.
Knits form a major part of her autumn offering. Via an Estonian knitting-group (she Facebooks authentic, needle-clacking crews), she recreated the crochet flowers her grandmother taught her to make as a child. She also collaborated with London designer Alice Lee, whose tile-knits are instantly recognisable.
The flowers were also a nod to her grandmother’s gardening, which won her a prize for ‘most beautiful garden’ from the Estonian government. They covered the collection, whether screened onto silk pyjama-suits, printed on jacquard wrap-skirts or fashioned from paillettes running up jumpers and down dresses. Single drop-earrings are shaped like small bouquets. More blooms sprout from Madrid-based Angradema López’s shoes, including the striking mint thigh-boots with lilac Swarovski-crystal flowers. Ms Einer builds on the gardening theme with puffa jackets she remembers seeing her grandmother wear outdoors, as well as the lush greens in her colour palette.
There is lots of tartan included as homage to her grandmother’s wardrobe, which the designer recalls had heaps of checks. The fabric features heavily in this season’s evening-wear, a new category for the brand. Ms Einer uses Forties and Fifties silhouettes for the more lavish pieces, dripping with sequins or splashed with tulle stars. A long faux-fur evening coat with green panels and a one-shoulder taffeta-on-foil gown are especially pretty.
Roberta Einer signatures such as sequinned trousers and embellished suits recur, as does her penchant for making things comfortably sexy, seen here in the plunging necklines added to the smock dresses from Spring/Summer’s Moroccan-themed collection. Makeup and haircare was plant-based, all by Aveda, so models looked fresh as daisies.