Walter Van Beirendonck AW2018 “Worlds of Sun & Moon” text by Emmanuel Pierre

This season, Walter Van Beirendonck peopled his concrete catwalk with tent-like silhouettes and cube-shaped shoulders that seemed to emerge straight from a nuclear plant.

His favourite fetish gear materialised into skin-tight khaki tops, jumpsuits and underwear made in collaboration with PrimaDonna.

In contrast, heartwarming, radiating gradients and primary colours were here to balance out the post-apocalyptic atmosphere and heavy-bassed, pounding soundtrack.

Slightly less conceptual, and more understated were a few leather outfits : some oversized black leather pants worn over an electric blue leather jacket with suspenders and a pair of matching rubber gloves, or that hooded black leather jumpsuit cinched at the waist and cuffs, topped by fantastic 80s style sunglasses.

A few usual hints of gay vernacular were sprinkled on every other piece, “top” and “bottom” included, combined with “gang bang” prints by Andrea Cammarosano. Not to mention the oversized eyelets that could be mistaken for gloryholes – most probably not a coincidence.

At last, a recurring “Pig !” slur – that somehow couldn’t truly be meant as an insult in Walter’s own mouth – culminated in a glistening pink pig raincoat in rubber.

Nothing’s ever too literal – or is it ?