Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
For her fourth season under the NEWGEN banner, Sadie Williams invites us for an evening by the sea. A group of young girls are stranded on the shoreline – perhaps their plane has been wrecked, as in William Golding’s 1954 novel Lord of the Flies. It is, however, far more likely that they were stranded by a catastrophe at sea as Williams weaves nautical codes into the cracks of her creations.
Dark satins provide a luscious background for Williams’ Swarovski-sponsored sparkle as this season she joins the collective of designers the group choose to sponsor. Morse code appears on a white shirt & flags from all over the world spell out the nautical alphabet; a top is decorated with rope ties & keychains feature miniature boats; a soundtrack provided by Jackson Holmes features the sound of a radar & the booming of a woman’s voice reading out mysterious coordinates.
There is, of course, no breton here – Williams tends not to be too obvious. Whilst there are a few nods to the fisherman’s top of choice, it is perhaps not the typical Breton that you’d come to expect from an ocean-oriented show. These girls are a little more DIY punk than your typical sea cadet, kitted out with fishnets (can you make fishnet out of a fish net?) & a primary-coloured wardrobe that looks as if it has been crafted from the contents of their suitcases.
Flags are patchworked on to skirts & comfy (relatively sellable) hoodies; towelling is moulded into a sundress, the twisted top suggesting a partiality for lounging in the sun. Despite some messy locks & dark panda eyes (did they not realise they could wash their mascara off in the sea?) they’ve managed to craft themselves an adequate – & rather luxurious – wardrobe.