Marta Jakubowski spring 2017 – text by Eilidh Nuala Duffy

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

If you think that post-Soviet fashion ends with Gosha Rubchinskiy & Lotta Volkova, I implore you to think again. She may not be referencing subculture & the clothes may not be the most wearable on a day-to-day basis but Polish born & German bred NEWGEN designer Marta Jakubowski is showing the world that Eastern European fashion isn’t all about hoodies. True to her style, Jakubowski presented us with a rich collection complete with exquisite tailoring, models clad in bold colours & lustrous, rich fabrics.

This time said colours – bright orange & nearly-luminescent pink – were drawn from her experiences in India, a trip she made this summer after the death of her mother in July. Learning from the Indian appreciation of life & death as one coexistent entity, Jakubowski presents us with a meditation on the passage of time – perhaps the designer’s time on this earth.

To say it was a more personal collection than previous seasons would be an understatement. Jakubowski seems to be reconnecting with her childhood after a traumatic experience: a German lullaby serenades sullen-faced models staring into the distance on a bright red fairground carousel provided by set designer Gary Card. There was a melancholic beauty to the show, but the resulting fairytale effect was perhaps more Brothers Grimm than Walt Disney. Fairytales, of course, were traditionally not meant to entertain, but to scare young children. Marta Jakubowski’s fairytale stays true to that by presenting the hard reality of life: that it is hard to grow up & find yourself, suddenly, an adult. And what could make you feel more adult than the passing of a parent.



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