NSFW: Namilia SS17

Berlin-based designers Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl of Namilia have always been fascinated by the disruptive youth culture of the 20th century. Though it was before their time, the duo turns to fashion that evokes the essence of punk, grunge, and anarchy, but in a modern context. They were picked up by the VFiles a couple years ago and have been creating subversive fashion for a cult following ever since. This collection marks their first-ever standalone show at NYFW.

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Upon entering, guests are handed a copy of Namilia’s manifesto:

  1. Visualization of the extreme power and madness of teenage fandom and turning boys into sexual playthings.
  2. Reversing patriarchal society’s concept of female sexualization and objectification.
  3. A mash up of hardcore fetish-wear, provocative slogans and NSFW visuals to create the true fashion activist
  4. A celebration of the deviant and the freakish; reinterpreting the rebellious and sexual codes of punks and goths
  5. Freeing yourself from the common rules of decency and letting your most inner fantasies run free
  6. Take down Trump

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The Namilia SS17 collection is infused with elements of the political, religious, and sadomasochistic – all encapsulated in a shiny pop-exterior. Models walked the runway to Justin Bieber in leather masks, chains, vinyl, and lace. The pieces are many things: corseted, denim, strappy, sometimes non-existent. An oversized hoodie with train featured a biblical image of Adam and Eve, under which the name of the show, “You’re Just A Toy,” stood out in capital letters. Another featured Bieber’s face, superimposed with the phrase, “Nothing Will Ever Be The Same.” The effect was spectacular and though-provoking.

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In an interview with WWD, the designers claimed, “We want to trigger thought with our clothes. If you are a designer, you have a voice — we want to be heard.” After this spectacular show, they certainly have our attention.

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