Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week – Part II – David Delfin and Lydia Delgado

David Delfin, who recently showed during New York Fashion Week for a second season, brought his collection back home to Cibeles last week. Known for his severe tailoring and its monastic appeal, Delfin injected strong doses of color into his predominant palette of grey and white. Pieces of garments migrated to unexpected places, experiments in deconstruction that made for more interesting menswear than womenswear. Eleonora Bose, a Spanish androgyne who became famous thanks to Tom Ford during his Gucci days, opened the show to raucous applause, and her orange hair was mirrored by a male model who came out shortly after. Delfin deserves the attention he's received in recent years, but he'd benefit from lightening up a little. Fashion's move towards the minimal suits his signature aesthetic, but minimalism today is a much less self-serious affair than in previous decades, and the rise of fast-fashion and sportswear means that consumers are looking for versatile pieces that work in a variety of situations. Delfin's witty constructions feel a bit removed from real-life – if he can find a way to transmute that preciousness into a more practical form his appeal would certainly expand.

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Lydia Delgado was a name I wasn't familiar with, but I'm so glad I saw her show. Her quirky aesthetic, which shows Prada's influence in its proportions and its riffs off of feminine cliches, is made uniquely her own by her pop sensibility. Small details on garments – a zipper, a subtle drape, an applique – speak loudly to Delgado's talent. Standout accessories included fur hats, platform sandals, and sunglasses. Hopefully international buyers and editors will take more notice of her work. She has a broad appeal, and like Alphaville, there's no doubt that she'd be big in Japan.

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