The past few seasons have seen a seismic shift at Alexandre Herchcovitch as the designer takes full advantage of the cash infusion afforded by an investment partnership. You can see his newfound freedom in the level of polish exhibited by the collections on dispaly – finer finishing and higher-quality fabrics and materials – which still exhibit his trademark avant-garde spirit.

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This season saw Herchcovitch unleash an army of Russian peasants dolled up and dripping in couture embellishments. The show began on a militaristic note, moved into elegant eveningwear and evolved into printed brocade-effects – silhouettes spanned expertly-tailored sculptural shapes with sloped shoulders and three-quarter sleeves, paired with tights and lean tousers, a few springy crystal and net minidresses and full legged hussar pants. Models included Isabeli Fontana, Diane Conterato, Aline Weber and Caroline Trentini.

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The in-your-face luxe will sell well in emerging markets – maybe Herchcovitch had Russia on his mind in more ways than one? His seamless mix of creative and commercial potential is an argument for the positive effect external investment can play in fashion and proof that the story doesn

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