PARIS MENS FASHION WEEK – DAY 4 (Lanvin, Wooyoungmi, Masatomo, Dior Homme, Julius and Romain Kremer)

Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,

The fourth and last day at Paris Mens Fashion Week started with a traditional trademark seduced in contradictions, Wooyoungmi's fascinating zip details, pink transparency in Romain Kremer and ended in the big excitement at the Gareth Pugh show.


Lucas Ossendrijver continues his journey taking Lanvin into a world of luxurious romanticism, he brings back confident clothing with a soft silk touch. He especially excels in details like the combination boot-sneaker and the mixture of traditional/techno fabrics driving the garments in an unbelievably well constructed way. The sometimes unfinished look gave a certain charm in the long-lasting clean Lanvin look.

Wooyoungmi incoorporated the zipper as a detail in different ways of constructing trousers but the way of elongating and deforming the shapes by creating detailed openings was rather brilliant. Further more she played with lenghts where cardigans almost looked like dresses, minimal pieces had an extreme functionality and accessories including scarfs and Mongolian  hats combined beautifully as did the shoes from Belgian brand Elsa.

Masatomo presented a take-away extravagance on exposing celebrities in wild animal prints and glitter. The little subtility and unfunctional gaming took away the final bit of interest.

The third Kris van Assche show for Dior Homme attracted many celebrities for obvious reasons. Silhouettes were large and slim with spacious trousers that folded around the waist followed by long lean shapes. The collection included long shirts, bomber jackets, neck pieces and zipper details. New looks included a strapping jacket and an overlapping blazer worn giving another dimension to Dior. The atmosphere heated up with hundreds of red-lights and Malcolm Mc Larens remixed soundtrack.

Julius offered a brooding gloomy coordination of darkness with every now and then a touch of colour, the leather accessories and heavy boots put the look altogether. Long Shaped t-shirts were treated and destroyed and highly styled with long and short cut outerwear. Leather, Leather, Leather.

The Out of the Box feeling was to be expected at Romain Kremers latest presentation. Transparency in mostly oversized and colourful, open creations put the focus on the nuditiy of the body. It might not be the easiest collection to wear but it clearly has carved out its own space. Plastic. Gym.


Martin Kullik







Dior Homme



Romain Kremer