Dear Shaded Viewers & Diane,
With Switzerland strategically gaining territories into the fashion map by now officially hosting VETEMENTS’s HQ in Zurich, design hub Basel did its own part by delivering impeccable fashion practices a week ago when the Institute of Fashion Design; presented twenty-two graduates under the tittle: LOOK THERAPY.
In what used to be an impressive railway warehouse, now models were circulating through three simultaneous performance-stages; that space got us into a cruising nightclubbing mood-atmosphere. Hunting your favorite look was similar to spotting the right pretty eyes all way before the Internet killed the physical affaires we used to enjoy while HAVING FUN. Reminding us, not all cats are black in the night! Guests – seating and standing – giving a full-packed club appearance counting up to 650 per show; took over the dance floor. And when each collection entered the venue, and walked it entirely following human tunnels (alla Parigi) even on roller-skaters; we all joined the pleasure to flirt the looks through out the crowd. We were all VIPs in there!
You might have thought it was fashion’s coldest act on stainless steel podiums, but it wasn’t. The model’s floor traffic through the venue was clearly an invite to liberate your eyes from the empty flat screen slash selfie solo world we wrongly believe in; and search for the highly creative ones into the physical crowd. A challenging message from these well-trained graduates or shorthand for: if you turn your screen into your mirror-mirror, watch out, you might end falling on the dance floor!
The strongly executed choreography by Djana Covic and Krõõt Juurak also indicated how important is your clubbing ‘entrée’, alone or grouped: make first your turn on the imaginary catwalk and then show the powerful ‘clubgoer’ you are. All the models felt tremendously observed but never intimidated, reflecting “curing” or “healing” fashion prescribes only one medicine: ‘real contact” as a style therapy.
A few kilometers away and just across the German border, The Vitra Design Museum raised a question – HAVE YOU EVER MET A ROBOT? – as part of the current exhibition on machines. Something DOING FASHION 2017 was taking major distance of, and remaining loyal to their slogan: ‘FIGHT MINDLESS UNIFORMITY BY DOING DEEPLY COMMITTED”
ASVOF had the pleasure to meet all new designers (check our early exclusive sneak-peek-short-interviews on our Instagram roll) including their commitments, and here’s those we urgently want to share; while we highly recommend you to explore them all! Because we’ve to go back dancing!
Eloïse Ise: Ise’s rich approach to fabrics was not necessary measuring them, but making rather modern voluminous shapes for the free men she dreams about. Fashion seemed not relevant for the handsome user, but comfort and style were giving him a unique elegant confidence. The so-called feminine gowns were fully appropriated by the urban one who dresses unisex without questioning society’s pluralism on genders; but breaking them. Internship: Marques’Almeida, London (UK)
Félicie Pythoud: Searching for individuals while ignoring the digital parasites influencing us daily is Pythoud’s main concern: let your immune system hold the uniqueness you own, men! Ripping and interweaving on fabrics, creates a new gentlemen redefining him in times of woman emancipation. A natural activist on masculinity, who dares to dictate awareness on male classics by reinventing them. Internship: Gold Label Vivienne Westwood, London (UK)
Jill Bloch: Bloch’s suggests a good summer time can be the door for an excellent winter, and please, do not forget to behave as if you own a season-less style. Emotional outdoor memories are still to be told again, and again; even indoors. Like those garments you wore only once and became a timeless mate. The female influence from her own family played a relevant role on designing, specially Mamie who is still wearing red lipstick even to go for a walk with the dog as the designer said. Internship: Sonia Rykiel, Paris (F)
Lina Ruble: To endlessly get lost in clubs queuing for fun is an effortless experience, paid by checking the crowd wondering what is ‘bad taste’. Within teenage subcultures, those are the bodies Ruble aims to dress, that annoying silhouette that proves “There is only one step between Love and Hate”. Though I personally ended loving them looks, stereotypes are something we should all reject; and prejudices will disappear after loving what we initially hate. Internship: Devon Halfnight Leflufy, Antwerp (Belgium)
Melvin Möller: When the first look passed I noticed that luminous lurex dress in combination with a garland, was just the flamboyant beginning of a no ending hiking tale. Zöller brought hiking to the next peak instead of to the next level. Springing back-and-forth between typical hiking clothing and classic couture elements totally worked. Heels and padded skirts were far away from an official female moment, it all looked butch-wearable and playful instead. Internship: KENZO, Paris (F)
Paolo Pilat: Pilat’s designs were evaporating Paris, oh oooooui! The excellent casting walked in full arrogance, something we all did accept. In the end, it was all on the applied materials and patterns where Pilat told us an impressive romance we deeply felt. He was distant himself, but his garments were seeking comfortable chic solutions for the days ahead of us. That khaki washed silk shirt-dress brought more than one seating first row to whisper with desire. Swiss artist Heidi Bucher inspired Pilat as well, who also experimented with latex and mother-of-pearl colors for her clothing and space sculptures.