Dear Shaded Viewers,
If Switzerland has an impressive retail scene, particularly in Zurich where luxury and style have always been valued, independent Swiss designers are not particularly known abroad, perhaps due to a somewhat insular context. A country of contrasts and contradictions where three languages are spoken -just to make things a bit more difficult- Switzerland nevertheless thrives on creativity and singular voices, within art, music, literature and also fashion, as evidenced by the last edition of Mode Suisse.
Taking place at the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst in Zurich, the fashion show event was orchestrated by Yannick Aellen, whose international network allows him to introduce and promote innovative Swiss talent. I was impressed with Geneva’s HEAD showcase this year, featuring the work of three inspiring students. Jeremy Gaillard deserves a special mention for his incredible fur outerwear and beautifully crafted feather pieces which amazed the audience, proving that sportswear shapes can be directional and deeply luxurious. Fur was an ongoing theme within Adrian Reber’s collection, focusing on vintage fabrics and one-off garments. Tailoring was strong in his show, from loose shorts and structured blazers to sleek bombers and slim pants. Reber is an interesting designer and his medieval-inspired shapes were intriguing, from floor-length coats to hooded mink capes.
Swiss menswear is, in fact, having a moment, exemplified by Julian Zigerli’s ironic take on chalet dressing, whose vision this season included animal print coats and logo Norwegian sweaters. His collection was cozy and comfortable, finding the right balance between image and commercialism. On the womenswear front, Wuethrichfuerst came up with a seductive proposal, using their signature deconstruction and warm prints to create cool separates. They also tapped into the current fetish mood with black PVC and strap fastening, adding a punk edge to the silhouette. It was a nice example of Swiss creativity in fashion, blending the conceptual with the truly wearable.