Think pink at Sacai by Lily Templeton

It wasn't until the word horrorshow appeared across a t-shirt that you could pinpoint what had been truly spliced into Chitose Abe's Sacai menswear. For once, the injection wasn't so much in the clothes themselves – those were deceptively simple and inspired by 90s sportswear – as in the mood, where the dystopian novlang nadsat invented by Anthony Burgess for A Clockwork Orange, embodied a touch of rot in all that sugar sweetness. Think pink as in the elephants of delirium tremens
 
As handsome as it was, this collection didn't carry the full weight of Chitose Abe's signature. Clothes were as they appeared to be, with very little added to them. That in itself could have felled the strongest Sacai fan. A knitwear panel here, a tumbling of asymetric ruffles there, a patchwork boilersuit, suiting cut from nylon, it was all bracingly straightforward. When Abe did add inserts, they fell into the ease-of-use category rather than the radical. A hotpot of inspirations – Nineties sportsgear, Mexican ponchos, Hawaian hibiscus, paisley – described a well-travelled mind with global and all-weather reach. Think of it as the travelling wardrobe of the surfer-slacker of the early Naughties, viewed through the rose-tinted lense of nostalgia. 
 
The layers made for heavier silhouettes than would be seasonable and didn't form a strong warm weather proposal. But they definitely made a case for being picked apart. A handful of women's silhouettes from her pre-spring came to round out this peripatetic collection, with their beautiful outlines that were just slightly more complex – one tweed poncho was a standout. This overarching simplification could have well been her way of lightening things. But presented so it telegraphed a fish-out-water sensation that sums up global weather disruption.
 
Yet beyond the consideration of how well this could translate on a retail floor, if fashion's experimentalists are doing quasi-straightforward product, then we might just need to talk about that elephant in our industry's room. 
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Lily Templeton

Writer, journalist, storyteller, editor - Based in Paris - Typing up a storm on real and virtual keyboards, thanks to a curiosity like a small gauge sieve, exploring the world of creation one question at the time.