Exploring the many floors of Dover Street Market New York is one of those things you need to experience for yourself. In keeping with Rei Kawakubo’s vision to “create a kind of market where creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos,” the space boasts an impressive bricolage of designers both established and emerging alongside art installations that translate seamlessly with the collections.
Most notable are the spaces built specifically for the start of NYFW, including Erdem Moralioglu’s leafy installation, inspired by his SS’15 collection. The organic quality of the prints and pieces within Erdem’s little oasis is a pleasant contrast to the industrial aesthetic of the market, and Rei Kawakubo’s sculptural latticework.
Another notable installation by Greg Lauren evokes a military campsite, replete with canvas drapes, stretchers – even a dusty lantern. The space also features two vintage tables with drawings and inscriptions by the designer himself. The rugged collection seems tailored to a Spartan lifestyle, with subtle hints of artistry.
Just in time for Valentine’s Day, the Comme des Garçons ‘Blood and Roses’ collection is striking, with powerful pieces like this candy red jacket – the backside packs a punch with a fanfare of belts and buckles.
I also enjoyed the collection from Andrea Jiapei Li, a recent Parsons graduate with a fun and futuristic concept. Her SS’15 collection is largely made of what she refers to as “space mesh,” a thick material that retains volume and allows for creative new shapes.