Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Passing nods to the lasting sway of Craig Green's trendsetting solo debut last season had found their way in many a show this past few days – and the hype surrounding his defining sophomore collection at LC:M was perhaps not as dramatic as it could have been elsewhere (we’re on British soil still), but certainly enough to potentially become detrimental, for a lesser designer than Green that is. The 'I've heard he will's had the crowd whispering till the very last minute this morning; the London-native designer though, proved himself swiftly, almost literally above any pressure. The sculptural explorations of a still iconic MA collection at Central Saint Martins, further developed during his years at MAN, have been slowly giving way to more accessible metaphors: whose conceptual scope and fluency had at the same time not once been diminished by this practical turn. On the contrary, Green's 2015 cycle in particular, reaches humbly for the highest spiritual altitude a contemporary menswear brand could strive for. Declined in terms of discipline and respite, its silhouettes wear no shoes, and radiate a healthy sort of power that's very different from the one of the suits we see in the City, and all the more enticing for it. The coming winter welcomes a renewed focus in technical fabrics and the clinched details of specialised sportswear, making the upward direction not just an ideology, but almost a physical climb. Ribbed protective layers alternate with fluttering shirts, tight, almost thermal vests with cottons and knits. All that can be is adjustable to weather or mood.
Later,
Silvia
