J.W. Anderson, fall 2014 – text by Silvia Bombardini

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

 

There is in each J.W. Anderson show that certain elusive yet unmissable quality that can make a lot of people inexplicably fond. It's that kind of purposefully slanted balance that allows his pieces to be daring when not outright outrageous and still they wouldn't look out of place in a posh British teahouse. It's what makes him what they call an "hot ticket" and his style one of those that will later come to define London's current golden era of Menswear Renaissance. By picking a 9am slot on the rainy morning right after the party, he makes sure that only a particularly resilient or motivated crowd will be actually present – and as such things go, we love him all the more for that. A coherent, sensible progression from his latest season (see the camel and black blocks, the clean ruffles and flares), his winter 2014 collection introduces as well surprising new elements to the mix, and is possibly J.W. Anderson's best one so far. His active, charming indifference for all things gender makes it so that he can present a menswear collection with models walking on very high platform heels that still manages to appear almost inadvertently wearable. Paper-thin knitwear and beautiful printed suits with puffed sleeves, pea coats and purses and a slight 70s flavour, the season was a curated, detailed essay in asymmetry and restraint, that will likely soon be featured in many one fashion editorial all around the globe.

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Later,

Silvia

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