Martine Rose, spring 2014 – text by Silvia Bombardini

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Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

 

Earlier today, in the basement at the
Hospital Club here in London, a young man in a backcombed blond wig laid
gracefully on a low brocade armchair, looking suitably disinterested, his cheeks
shimmering with  a dusting of glitter. Martine
Rose's choice of an interactive but static presentation to showcase her summer
collection mirrors a telltale fascination in lived spaces as an extension of
their lodgers' personal style, the main theme of Martine Rose's season.
Domesticity then, and an elusive, diluted sense of intimacy seep into pieces
inspired by sportswear and tracksuits, in a mostly black and white colour
palette, but lined with ruffled ribbons and lace, running all along the collars
or framing zippers and seams. As they recall fine curtains and pristine doilies,
these details also delicately challenge certainly outdated, prescribed notions of
masculinity and expectations, making space,
indeed, for whatever will come next.

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Later,

Silvia

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