Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Rice paper and soot, pale tea, ash shades and pinstripes. A postwar Japan inspired Juun.J's DU_AL collection for spring 2013, with its narrow waists and puffed shoulders, with the violent refinement of its villains and the self-inflicted, moving realism of its film noir scenes. In particular, it was a progeny of Kurosawa's dissected yakuza in Drunken Angel (1948), all trouble and honor and a layered soul in layered outfits that earlier today walked the length of the Mineralogy Gallery at the National Museum of Natural History in Paris. As the show went on, the ample, suited silhouettes of the 40s evolved into more contemporary attires of the same voluminous outlines: variations on the themes of trenches and perfectos, up to oversized sweaters, baseball caps and a few neon orange details.